All Isopods

Porcellionides Pruinosus is one of the more common isopod species in the hobby. They are often favored for a clean up crew as they are highly adaptable to a variety of climates. They can thrive in any climate for semi arid to sub tropical. If using in semi-arid, do understand they still need a moist area to hydrate and cannot survive in a 100% bone dry enclosure. That aside, they are very prolific and will reproduce readily so long as their basic needs are met. They are soft bodied also making them ideal for feeders for smaller lizards, frogs or similar. This particular morph "Orange Cream" was created by crossing the regular powder orange with another morph called "Oreo Crumbles". They have a very attractive coloration consisting of random orange splotching over a white to off white base. The oranges can range bright to dark, but all specimens typically have a very nice contrast to them and are great show isopods if that is your desire. They are both day and night active so you can enjoy them all hours of the day and night. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the low to mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Around one half to one third of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side. This species does seem to appreciate a steep moisture gradient. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. Orange Cream isopods are fond of protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. They do have an impressive feeding response when offered such items. Almost like a swarm of piranhas, they will cluster all over the food source and devour it quickly.  Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Porcellionides Pruinosus comes in many color forms, but this is one of our favorites. The bright oranges and whites combined with the fact they are rather active during the day makes them a top notch display isopod. The fact they are highly adaptable to a wide range of climates and very hardy is a win! You get a flashy isopod that can fill nearly any need from feeders, to display and or clean up crew! Quick Facts Origin: Europe Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellionides > Porcellionides Pruinosus Characteristics: Random light and dark orange splotching. Fast moving. Soft bodied. Environmentally adaptable. Average Size: Around 0.50" inch Activity level: Active both day and night Difficulty: Easy

Porcellio Scaber "Orange Koi" is has an appealing variable pattern of that which resembles the koi fish. Porcellio Scaber and it's many color morphs are an excellent choice for beginners. They have a wide tolerance for both temperature and humidity. This convenient forgiving nature in their husbandry requirements means they can generally tolerate a moderate level of learning curves without disaster. The morph characteristics of Porcelleio Scaber "Orange Koi" are displayed as a highly variable patterning of deep orange/red hues on a mostly gray to black base. They are very prolific and will reproduce readily if well cared for. Be aware the patterning on each and every isopod is unique. Some offspring may exhibit high levels of red/orange while others may be nearly all gray due to their unique genetic lineage. All isopods you will receive from us will exhibit a good ratio of red/orange patterns. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Slightly warmer is desirable if you wish to see a thriving culture that is active and reproduces faster. This species They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. Being a Porcellio, they are especially fond of protein which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Porcellio Scaber Lava is just one of many color morphs of this hardy isopod. Their adaptability to a wide range of humidity and ventilation needs make them a top choice for a clean up crew or a display pet.  Quick Facts Origin: Europe, but established nearly worldwide Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Porcellio Scaber Morph Name: "Orange Koi" Variable patterns of light and dark orange with cream colored accents Average Size: 0.65" to 0.75" inches  Activity level: Primarily nocturnal but does show some daytime activity Care Level: Easy

Nesodillo Archangelii "Yeti" is an albino variant of the popular "Shiro Utsuri" isopod. They are all white including the eyes! Belonging to the Nesodillo genus, they originate from Asia and various parts of the pacific region. They average just under half an inch and are semi translucent. The darker area in their center is the digestive tract. As such if they consume foods with bright colors (like carrots), the orange color will be somewhat visible as it works it's way through their body. They are an excellent beginner isopod and are very hardy if their basic requirements are maintained. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Yeti isopods like moisture, so a steep gradient is not needed. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is best. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A round about average 75%+ humidity level without large deviations will allow them to thrive. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Shiro isopods enjoy food options like butternut squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also show a strong feeding response to protein, so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Lastly, ensure these isopods have a calcium source. Cuttlebone or crushed egg shells will be devoured in little time and promotes their general good health. If you're looking for something a little different than the run of the mill armadillidium or porcellio isopod types, the Yeti is an excellent choice. They're a great terrarium or vivarium clean up crew and once established can be rather prolific and reproduce quickly. Their outgoing social nature combined with their strikingly bright white coloration sets them apart from most comparable species and will provide endless entertainment for all ages who appreciate these one of a kind crustaceans. Quick Facts Origin: Various Asia and Pacific Regions Classification: Armadillidiidae > Nesodillo > Arcangelii Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some daytime activity is normal with large cultures. Difficulty: Easy

First and foremost be aware this is a DWARF isopod species. This means it's SMALL. Average adult size is about 1/4 inch or 6 to 8 mm. If you already know this obvious fact or it's not a deal breaker then read on. Spiky Pineapple Isopods are an intermediate skill level species most anyone with at least some successful isopod experience can easy keep and enjoy. As their name implies, their exterior is adorned with little spiky nubs that are in no way actually sharp or anything to be concerned about. They vary in color, mostly a washed out orange to light yellow. They are nocturnal and tend to form tight clusters underneath of cork bard or decayed wood and come out at night to feed and forage. Their spectacular appearance more than makes up for their smaller size and are a rewarding species to keep. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is beyond sufficient for a small starter culture. You don't want to start off with much bigger than this unless you are getting or already have a large number of these isopods on hand. Being dwarf isopods, if they are too spread out it will take much longer for them to find each other and start reproducing. Conversely you don't want too small either as environmental changes in a very small space happen much faster which isn't a good thing for this and most other isopod types. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding.  Average room temperature will suit them just fine. A good temperature range is 72-78F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Spiky Pineapples do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry so allow for some ventilation. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Keeping your substrate at least 3-4 inches deep also helps retain humidity and gives them some room to burrow if things get too dry. They will simply dig down where there is more moisture until conditions on the surface are more to their liking.  Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Spiky Pineapples enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Supplemental calcium is recommended as well. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. Some cuttle bone pieces are always a welcome treat as well. Spiky Pineapples have shot up in popularity as of recent and we are happy to offer some of our quality in house specimens for your terrarium! They are not extremely difficult like some Cubaris, but they do require a little bit more upkeep and monitoring to ensure their environment stays optimal. Their pleasant contrasting colors look great in the terrarium and even though they typically not too visible at day, they do come out in force once the day light hours have ended. Quick Facts Origin: Spain. Mostly in the Iberian Peninsula region Classification: Cristarmadillidium > Cristarmadillidium Muricatum Average Size:1/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Care Level: Intermediate

Trachelipus Caucasius is an odd ball isopod not quite known and popular as other species. None the less they are more than deserving of some love and recognition. This unique crustacean originates from Georgia (the country), Turkey and select areas around the black sea. They are on the larger size with some reaching close to 1 inch! They are a beginner friendly species and are relatively easy to keep. They colored edging ranges from orange to peach or a very light pink on some. These colors contrast nicely with their dark base color giving them visual appeal when they're out and about. For housing they need a bit more space to accommodate their larger body sizes. A 12 quart sterilite gasket sealed bin or medium sized glass tank measuring at least 18-24 long by 12 or more inches wide is ideal for a starter colony with some room to grow. Enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. A good temperature range for this species is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Trachelipus Caucasius is somewhat dry tolerant but as always ensure they have some access to moisture so they can rehydrate as needed. A standard moisture gradient comparable to Vulgare or Klugii isopods will suit them just fine. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient while also providing beneficial micro climates. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also do appreciate some protein occasionally which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests.  Trachelipus Caucasius is a fun unique isopod that serves well as clean up crew or beginner option if you're new to isopods. They have fascinating color contrast and get on the larger size for terrestrial isopods. They're not overly sensitive so a small amount of neglect will typically not be detrimental. This less than mainstream isopod species can make a great pet or terrarium addition for your needs! Quick Facts Origin: Georgia, Turkey and areas around the Black Sea Taxonomy: Trachelipodidae > Trachelipus > Caucasius Average Size: 0.70" inch to 0.80" inch Activity level: Mostly active at night. Some day activity in large numbers Difficulty: Easy

Porcellio Hoffmanseggi is nearly the largest land isopod that exists today. Bested in size only by it's cousin Porcellio Magnificus. Hoffmannseggi isopods are sometimes referred to as "titans" and once you've handled one it's easy to see why. Their antennae can be just as long if not longer than their body length. They are generally a light to medium gray with a nice white edged skirt giving them good visual contrast. Full grown males on average reach 1.5 inches with females only slightly smaller. With that said, they need generous space. Males can be territorial and an off balance ratio of males to females can result in fighting along with the females being "harassed" which causes stress and other potential issues. A sterilite gasket sealed bin or glass tank measuring at least 18-24 long by 12 or more inches wide is ideal for a starter colony with some room to grow. Enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. The preferred temperature range for P. Hoffmanseggi is 68-76F. Moisture gradient and ventilation is where the potential challenging aspect of this species comes into play. They do best in a drier set up than most typical isopods but still need a moist area or two to avoid desiccating. If your set up is large enough, a few different areas that vary in this way can be beneficial. Such as having two separate moist corners and some dry area in between. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day to facilitate their biological processes as needed. A second layer of needs that further makes them a little more involved is that they need medium to high ventilation. This is easiest achieved with an enclosure that has some level of height up and away from the substrate. In the areas that are to be moist, the substrate can be a bit deeper which in turn retains humidity longer. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will also help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. They also seem to appreciate some stacked cork bark which gives them another dimension to regulate their moisture needs by climbing higher away from the substrate. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. Being a Porcellio, they do appreciate some protein occasionally which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. It should also be noted it's highly recommended to have some form of calcium available at all times. As these unique isopods naturally occur in the limestone caves of eastern Spain, they spend all of their lives in such environments and the closer your set up can mimic their natural surroundings, the better your chance of success. Hoffs are a rewarding species to keep and never fail to impress with their sheer size. Though they are mostly hidden by day, if you look in on them after the lights have been out for a short time, you will see them fully out and about foraging for food and exploring their surroundings. There are some color variants in the hobby like chocolate, albino and even an orange version! Hoffs do require a little more care and upkeep than some other types but watching your own colony of titans grow and flourish is well worth the effort! Quick Facts Origin: Spain Taxonomy: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > P. Hoffmannseggii Size: Up to 1.50 inches Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Difficulty: Intermediate

Armadillidium Vulgare is one of the most readily available isopods in the hobby that has numerous color morphs and localities. They range all over the color spectrum from plain Jane gray to several different bright and vibrant colors. The albinos however always pack that extra "WOW" factor and these little gems do not disappoint! A. Vulgare has two albino variations: T positive and T negative. But what does that even mean and what is the difference?! The "T" is an abbreviation for an enzyme called Tyrosinase which plays a key role in the development of melanin in every living creature. Melanin of course translating to pigmentation or color. It does this by acting as a crucial rate limiting step in this much deeper molecular process. Simply stated, more amounts of tyrosinase will produce more melanin resulting in darker pigmentation.  T Positive is a condition in which tyrosinase is present, but has reduced activity in comparison in how it works in a non albino specimen of the same species. T Negative means the tyrosinase enzyme is completely absent or non functional. How does this translate to isopods? The T Positive strain is expressed with a slightly semi translucent caramel base with ultra bright yellow flecking and splotching. They are absolutely gorgeous and have to be seen in person to truly and fully appreciate! The T negative variant is devoid of all pigments which makes them primarily white or cream colored. For clarification purposes, neither variant has red eyes! The red eye color associated with albinism is a result of ambient light shining through a non pigmented eye which illuminates the blood vessels thus making the eyes appear red. But isopods like most other invertebrates do NOT have blood. They have a colorless protein that delivers nutrients to their bodies in the same manner. Hence, T positive isopods will have dark colored eyes and T negative will have white eyes. Armadillidium Vulgare is a very common isopod species and the one most people are referring to with the iconic term "pill bug" or "roly poly". They are native to Europe, most notably in the Mediterranean basin area but have established themselves nearly worldwide. They are a beginner friendly species being fairly flexible in their needs and tolerant to a variety of environmental conditions. A. Vulgare is a relatively outgoing isopod that can be seen exploring and moving about their enclosure at various times both day and night. As with most isopods, higher numbers means higher overall visibility. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture of these beauties. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature around the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. A. Vulgare prefers a temperate climate with good ventilation. Around one third to half of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side, but not completely devoid of some moisture. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day to facilitate their biological processes as needed. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. A. Vulgare isopods relish food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Armadillidium Vulgare T Negative Albino is an easy species to keep and is fairly forgiving with the learning curves of new keepers or the occasional memory lapse. Their sleek neutral appearance combined with their partial daytime active disposition makes them an ideal candidate for a display isopod if that's your desire. A. Vulgare has many other color morphs and locales worth checking out if you like this species and want a variety of colors. Quick Facts Origin: Mediterranean Europe Classification:  Armadillidiidae > Armadillidium > A. Vulgare Characteristics: Off white to pale yellow coloring Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Active both day and night Care level: Easy

Cubaris Murina Glacier is a great isopod for many applications from bio-active custodian, classroom educational setting or of course just as a unique pet. They are a true albino lacking any pigmentation. Even their eyes are white! The dark area running down their center line is the digestive tract. Since they are semi translucent, the color(s) of foods fed may be visible from the inside. For example, feeding them carrots will show a very unmistakable white-ish orange color until they have fully digested. Cubaris Murina is among the easiest of the Cubaris Genus to keep not being quite as sensitive and demanding as it's many other cousins. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. C. Murina do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. In addition to the glacier morph seen here, there are many other color morphs available ranging from grey, pink, orange and a few others as well! Starter and smaller cultures are somewhat reclusive, but they are noticeable more bold in higher numbers. Our large cultures are active both day and night and can always be seen moving about in their enclosure. With only a few non demanding needs outside of "typical isopod care", Cubaris Murina is no doubt an excellent isopod to add to your collection! Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia Classification: Armadillidiadae > Cubaris > Cubaris Murina  Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Active both day and night Care Level: Intermediate

Porcellio Scaber "Skewbald Tri" is a unique isopod that has highly variable patterns and colors. Porcellio Scaber is an excellent choice for beginners. They have a wide tolerance for both temperature and humidity. This convenient forgiving nature in their husbandry requirements means they can generally tolerate a moderate level of learning curves without disaster. The Skewbald Tri isopods appearance is actually a result of intermixing two different genetic mutations together which are calico and piebald. Porcellio scaber has a substantial amount of variants far as appearance go. But to minimize any potential confusion, it's important to note no matter what the common name is for any color morph in the hobby, the actual animal itself (porcellio scaber) is the same across all types. All of those fancy catchy names are simply ways to easily distinguish the coloration and patterns for any given specimen.          So what exactly makes a Skewball Tri isopod look the way it does? The first mixing element, piebald is a recessive gene that causes lack of pigments in random sections of the animal. Usually in a splotching manner anywhere from the head area all the way to the back. The piebald effect can range from very minimal to a complete lack of all color. Next is the calico trait which is expressed as mottling in dark spots. Mottling is not large defined dots, but rather a very high frequency of smaller dots. So when we mash these two genetic traits together we get Skubald Tri! Each and every isopod is different in it's appearance, yet they all generally display the same theme with a mix of these two traits. Some are black and gray and others are reddish orange to white and numerous shades in between. One visually appealing and satisfying aspect of this morph is that these variances to some degree are separated on the pereon (the scutes or sections you see when looking at the isopod from above). Lastly it is vital to point out that the calico gene is only expressed by females. As such, any Skubald Tri isopod that has the calico pattern is 100% female. Isopods in this group that only show the piebald appearance with no mottling are more than likely going to be males. All isopods you receive from us will exhibit a good ratio of colors and patterns along with ensuring there are both males and females included so your culture can grow. For care, porcellio scaber is very easy. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Slightly warmer is desirable if you wish to see a thriving culture that is active and reproduces faster. This species They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy.  Being a Porcellio, they are especially fond of protein which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Porcellio Scaber Skewbald Tri is just one of many color morphs of this hardy isopod. We have several others in our storefront and highly encourage you to check them out! This intriguing designer isopod is very adaptable to a wide range of humidity and ventilation needs make them a top choice for a clean up crew or a display pet. Quick Facts Origin: Europe Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Porcellio Scaber Characteristics: Variable patterns and colors exhibiting both piebald and calico traits. Strong feeding response. Average Size: 0.65" to 0.75" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity normal in larger cultures. Difficulty: Easy

Porcellio Scaber is a popular and highly utilized species for clean up crew in the terrarium. They have a wide tolerance for both temperature and humidity. This convenient forgiving nature in their husbandry requirements means they can generally tolerate a moderate level of learning curves without disaster. They are soft bodied and can also be used as a feeder for many reptiles and amphibians. There are many color morphs available to suit virtually any preference.  This particular variant called "Orange Dalmatian" comes from crossing P. Scaber Orange with P. Scaber Dalmatian. The overall appearance of Orange Dalmatian is a creamy off white base, sometimes showing a subtle orange hue.The typical gray to dark gray spotting on the regular dalmatian variant is replaced with a bright and vibrant orange! Please carefully note mancae and younger individuals are usually devoid of or only show very minimal dalmatian spotting characteristics. This is normal! Their full colors and variable patterns do not fully develop until the reach the sub adult to adult stages of their lives.  A common question we often hear is "What is the difference between Orange Dalmatian and Orange Koi?" Simply stated, the Orange Dalmatian's overall color at a glance is mostly it's base color of off white. The orange spotting and flecking amounts will vary, but the base color of off white covers a much higher amount of the surface area than the orange portions. The Orange Koi version is mostly orange with various levels of off white splotching. Same as before, the patterns and distribution of orange vs. white pigmentation will vary, but with Orange Koi, orange accounts for the bulk majority of the coloration. Caring for any variant of P. Scaber is easy. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Slightly warmer is desirable if you wish to see a thriving culture that is active and reproduces faster. This species They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy.  Being a Porcellio, they are especially fond of protein which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests.Porcellio Scaber Orange Dalmatian is visually stunning with their bright orange spotting and flecking contrasting nicely on an off white base. They're a great all a multi purpose isopod. Whether you need a bioactive janitor, a feeder, or just want a species to enjoy that isn't high maintenance they can fill every niche from semi arid to sub tropical and look good while doing it! They are tough, hardy and reproduce frequently once established. Quick Facts Origin: Europe Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Porcellio Scaber Characteristics; Predominant off white base with various amounts of orange spotting. Highly prolific. Strong feeding response. Average Size: 0.65" to 0.75" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity normal in larger cultures. Difficulty: Easy

The coveted Rubber Ducky is quite likely a huge part of why the isopod hobby has quickly grown from odd and reclusive to main stream. Who couldn't fall in love with their brilliant contrasting colors and adorable duck face like features? Outside of folks who just need a simple effective clean up crew for an enclosure, the Rubber Ducky isopod is an essential component and must have for any hobbyist or collector. This ultra rare variant features a nice contrasting black and white pattern. They almost look like they are wearing little tuxedos and are quite endearing. But that cuteness does have some strings attached if you want to have a thriving culture and enjoy these top tier crustaceans. Firstly, this NOT an ideal isopod for beginners with zero experience or understanding of general isopod keeping and husbandry. Most Cubaris with a few exceptions are considered an advanced species far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. There is a wealth of information out there about how to care for these isopods and get the best results. As with almost any topic, if you read enough you will find some details from one source do not always 100% line up with another. There are many fine points that are legit debatable and many of these come from respectable experienced keepers. Our mantra is not to say who is potentially right or wrong or squabble about micro details. But only to provide you the best practices which is largely the relevant straight forward needs of this rare designer isopod so you can share your success with others. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Ducky Isopods are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. White Ducky Isopods are very slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking up to 4-6 months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Ducky Isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. White Duckies do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. White Duckys are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our Duckys as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well.In conclusion when compared to many other isopods, White Duckies are certainly a bit more "needy". But if you can meet their care needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your White Duckies will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Rubber Ducky Characteristics: Classic cute ducky face and colors! Needs specific environmental parameters to thrive. Rare and slow to reproduce. Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75" to "0.85" Care Level: Advanced  

 Cubaris Sp. Happy Nun is a smaller Cubaris native to Thailand averaging about 1/2 inch in size. What they lack in size, they make up for in color! Their base can range from dark gray to a medium beige. Most have intricate translucent bronze markings though the amount and intensity varies from individual to individual. All of this is outlined with a creamy white edging which overall gives them a nice contrast. These isopods move quite fast compared to most others and quickly dart away if exposed or frightened. They are not overly difficult to keep, but as Cubaris they do have a few extra requirements beyond typical isopod 101. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Happy Nun is 74-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Happy Nuns do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. The substrate should at least 4-6 inches to allow for burrowing and extra moisture retention. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Do allow some ventilation so the air and substrate does not become stagnant. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris isopods Happy Nuns are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is a favorite as well. Happy nuns once established will produce medium sized broods on a fairly regular basis. They are an active isopod and will often be seen moving about, more so in the twilight hours and night times. Their variable color patterns and overall ease of care make them a great choice for the sub tropical to tropical terrarium. They are outstanding bio janitors and will work diligently to minimize plant and organic waste materials. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 1/2” inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Intermediate

The Troglodillo isopod genus has some amazing little gems still fairly rare to the hobby at this time. These isopods are somewhat flat overall and have a face similar to the coveted Rubber Ducky adding to their appeal. Their body structure is sturdy with well defined segments. Almost like a little compact tank! Troglodillo Sp. Green Spot may be the king/queen of them all! Their various shades of iridescent green mottling over a dark base is nothing short of breath taking. They are a bit more particular in their care needs and are not recommended for beginners or those with limited isopod experience.  For housing 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Green Spot isopods are largely cave dwellers originating from Thailand. They need a sub tropical to tropical environment with slightly higher temps and humidity than your average isopod. 70F to 80F is their comfort zone. Slight dips into the mid 60's at night are of no consequence. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. A sharp moisture gradient with 70% moist and the remainder no less than slightly dry works well for them. They do enjoy and utilize some dry area so set up your enclosure to facilitate this type of gradient. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent environment. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Provide them a steady source of cuttlebone for calcium. Ours are also provided small chunks of Texas holy rock which they seem to gravitate towards since it very closely mimics the caves they frequent in their native habitat. If you're an experienced keeper with a firm foundation on isopod 101. Troglodillo Green Spot may be the rare and exceptional isopod worthy of your next addition! Origin: Asia Classification: Armadillidiidae > Troglodillo > Green Spot Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some daytime activity is normal with large cultures. Difficulty: Advanced