Isopod

Armadillidium Vulgare is one of the most readily available isopods in the hobby that has numerous color morphs and localities. They range all over the color spectrum from plain Jane gray to several different bright and vibrant colors. The albinos however always pack that extra "WOW" factor and these little gems do not disappoint! A. Vulgare has two albino variations: T positive and T negative. But what does that even mean and what is the difference?! As you might imagine it does get rather technical in the science and genetics categories. But we'll keep it surface level as possible here for the obvious fact you didn't come to a shopping site for a long boring college lecture (you're welcome). The "T" is an abbreviation for an enzyme called Tyrosinase which plays a key role in the development of melanin in every living creature. Melanin of course translating to pigmentation or color. It does this by acting as a crucial rate limiting step in this much deeper molecular process. Simply stated, more amounts of tyrosinase will produce more melanin resulting in darker pigmentation.  T Positive is a condition in which tyrosinase is present, but has reduced activity in comparison in how it works in a non albino specimen of the same species. T Negative means the tyrosinase enzyme is completely absent or non functional. How does this translate to isopods? The T Positive strain is expressed with a slightly semi translucent caramel base with ultra bright yellow flecking and splotching. They are absolutely gorgeous and have to be seen in person to truly and fully appreciate! The T negative variant is devoid of all pigments which makes them primarily white or cream colored. For clarification purposes, neither variant has red eyes! The red eye color associated with albinism is a result of ambient light shining through a non pigmented eye which illuminates the blood vessels thus making the eyes appear red. But isopods like most other invertebrates do NOT have blood. They have a colorless protein that delivers nutrients to their bodies in the same manner. Hence, T positive isopods will have dark colored eyes and T negative will have white eyes. Armadillidium Vulgare is a very common isopod species and the one most people are referring to with the iconic term "pill bug" or "roly poly". They are native to Europe, most notably in the Mediterranean basin area but have established themselves nearly worldwide. They are a beginner friendly species being fairly flexible in their needs and tolerant to a variety of environmental conditions. A. Vulgare is a relatively outgoing isopod that can be seen exploring and moving about their enclosure at various times both day and night. As with most isopods, higher numbers means higher overall visibility. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture of these beauties. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature around the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. A. Vulgare prefers a temperate climate with good ventilation. Around one third to half of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side, but not completely devoid of some moisture. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day to facilitate their biological processes as needed. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. A. Vulgare isopods relish food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Armadillidium Vulgare T Negative Albino is an easy species to keep and is fairly forgiving with the learning curves of new keepers or the occasional memory lapse. Their sleek neutral appearance combined with their partial daytime active disposition makes them an ideal candidate for a display isopod if that's your desire. A. Vulgare has many other color morphs and locales worth checking out if you like this species and want a variety of colors. Quick Facts Origin: Mediterranean Europe Classification:  Armadillidiidae > Armadillidium > A. Vulgare Characteristics: Off white to pale yellow coloring Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Active both day and night Care level: Easy

Armadillidium Vulgare is one of the most readily available isopods in the hobby that has numerous color morphs and localities. They range all over the color spectrum from plain Jane gray to several different bright and vibrant colors. The albinos however always pack that extra "WOW" factor and these little gems do not disappoint! A. Vulgare has two albino variations: T positive and T negative. But what does that even mean and what is the difference?! As you might imagine it does get rather technical in the science and genetics categories. But we'll keep it surface level as possible here for the obvious fact you didn't come to a shopping site for a long boring college lecture (you're welcome). The "T" is an abbreviation for an enzyme called Tyrosinase which plays a key role in the development of melanin in every living creature. Melanin of course translating to pigmentation or color. It does this by acting as a crucial rate limiting step in this much deeper molecular process. Simply stated, more amounts of tyrosinase will produce more melanin resulting in darker pigmentation.  T Positive is a condition in which tyrosinase is present, but has reduced activity in comparison in how it works in a non albino specimen of the same species. T Negative means the tyrosinase enzyme is completely absent or non functional. How does this translate to isopods? The T Positive strain is expressed with a slightly semi translucent caramel base with ultra bright yellow flecking and splotching. They are absolutely gorgeous and have to be seen in person to truly and fully appreciate! The T negative variant is devoid of all pigments which makes them primarily white or cream colored. For clarification purposes, neither variant has red eyes! The red eye color associated with albinism is a result of ambient light shining through a non pigmented eye which illuminates the blood vessels thus making the eyes appear red. But isopods like most other invertebrates do NOT have blood. They have a colorless protein that delivers nutrients to their bodies in the same manner. Hence, T positive isopods will have dark colored eyes and T negative will have white eyes. Armadillidium Vulgare is a very common isopod species and the one most people are referring to with the iconic term "pill bug" or "roly poly". They are native to Europe, most notably in the Mediterranean basin area but have established themselves nearly worldwide. They are a beginner friendly species being fairly flexible in their needs and tolerant to a variety of environmental conditions. A. Vulgare is a relatively outgoing isopod that can be seen exploring and moving about their enclosure at various times both day and night. As with most isopods, higher numbers means higher overall visibility. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture of these beauties. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature around the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. A. Vulgare prefers a temperate climate with good ventilation. Around one third to half of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side, but not completely devoid of some moisture. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day to facilitate their biological processes as needed. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, cucumbers, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Armadillidium Vulgare T Positive Albino is an easy species to keep and is fairly forgiving with the learning curves of new keepers or the occasional memory lapse. Their vivid colors combined with their partial daytime active disposition makes them an ideal candidate for a display isopod if that is your desire. A. Vulgare has many other color morphs and locales worth checking out if you like this species and want a variety of colors. If you're curious about the T Negative Albino strain mentioned in the "educational section", yes we have those too! See our store front for many other fascinating and unique isopods! Quick Facts Origin: Mediterranean Europe Classification:  Armadillidiidae > Armadillidium > A. Vulgare Characteristics: Semi translucent caramel base with ultra bright yellow flecking and splotching Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Active both day and night Difficulty: Easy

The Tangerine morph of A. Vulgare was isolated from the Punta Cana line by selective breeding efforts of dedicated hobbyist. Tangerine isopods are born a bright and vibrant orange, but will deepen over time. As adults they are a deep almost burnt orange sometimes bordering red on very mature individuals.  Armadillidium Vulgare is a very common isopod species and the one most people are referring to when the iconic term "pill bug" is mentioned. They are native to Europe, most notably in the Mediterranean basin area but have established themselves nearly worldwide. They are a beginner friendly species being fairly flexible in their needs and tolerant of a variety of environmental conditions. Armadillidium Vulgare is a relatively outgoing isopod that can be seen exploring and moving about their enclosure at various times. As with most isopods, higher numbers means higher visibility. Average room temperature is fine for this species. A. Vulgare prefers a temperate climate with good ventilation. Around one third to half of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side, but not completely devoid of some moisture. Their primary diet is dried leaf litter and soft decayed wood which should always be available in abundance. They should also be offered some fresh vegetables like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies 1-2 times a week. Other supplemental options such as commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy are also devoured with enthusiasm. Tangerine isopods also need some protein in their diets. Options like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, fish flakes and other protein based food sources work well. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests.  All in all Armadillidium Vulgare is an easy species to keep and is fairly forgiving with the learning curves of new keepers or the occasional memory lapse. The Tangerine morph is just one of many exciting color options these fascinating little isopods come in. See our full care guide for Armadillidium Vulgare "Tangerine" which has comprehensive expanded details for all care aspects of this desirable isopod species! Quick Facts Origin: Mediterranean Europe Scientific Name: Armadillidium Vulgare Morph Name: Tangerine Characteristics: Young are bright orange and adults are deep to dark orange Size: Average is around 0.5 inches with large adults reaching 0.70 inches Activity level: Generally outgoing and daytime active

A. Werneri is actually one of the larger Armadillidiums reaching sizes of up to 0.85" inch in length and they are fairly bulky as well. This gives reason for their common name in the hobby of "Greater Clown Isopod". They tend to be on the shy side and stay hidden during most daylight hours only coming out to forage and explore when it's dark. But larger cultures will exhibit some level of daytime activity. The orange coloring varies slightly from individual to individual with the middle section usually a bit darker than the edges. But overall nice bright coloring with attractive contrasting white spotting from the head to end section.  For housing, a 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture of 12 to 25 individuals. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanicals to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature around the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Avoid temperatures lower than the mid 60sF and no higher than 80F. Like it's Klugii cousins, A. Werneri prefers it's climate slightly drier overall with easy access to a moist area when they need to re-hydrate their gills. Around one quarter to one third of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side, but not completely devoid of some moisture. It's not an issue to let it get drier than most other isopods may need, but do avoid allowing it to become 100% bone dry. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas as needed to maintain their needed ambient humidity levels. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. A longer piece that straddles both the moist and drier area also seems to be beneficial for this species.  Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Marbleized Isopods relish food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also appreciate some protein once or twice a week so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. A. Werneri Orange is not overly difficult to keep so long as you consistently provide the proper environment they need to thrive. They do tend to be on the slower side to reproduce, so understand it takes patience and time to see a few turn into many. At least 4-6 months of good care before you will notice tiny mancae in the substrate. They are also on the slower side to mature to breeding age taking 6+ months before they can contribute to increasing numbers. These facts are likely one of the biggest reasons this isopod is not quite common and readily available being somewhat hard to find. But they are an amazing and rewarding addition worth having in any collection! Quick Facts Origin: Greece and select Turkish islands Family Classification: Armadillidiidae > Armadillidium > A. Werneri Average Size: Between 0.80" to 0.85" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity is common with larger established cultures Difficulty: Intermediate

Cubaris Murina Anemone is a great isopod for many applications from bio-active custodian, classroom educational setting or of course just as a unique pet.They have attractive coloring consisting of random dark splotching on a light pink base. This is believed to be a calico morph. The color expression can and does vary between individuals, but all have it to some degree. Cubaris Murina is among the easiest of the Cubaris Genus to keep not being quite as sensitive and demanding as it's many other cousins. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. C. Murina do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it'a recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  In addition to the anemone morph seen here, there are many other color morphs available ranging from grey, pink, white, orange and a few others as well! Starter and smaller cultures are somewhat reclusive, but they are noticeable more bold in higher numbers. Our large cultures are active both day and night and can always be seen moving about in their enclosure. With only a few non demanding needs outside of "typical isopod care", Cubaris Murina is no doubt an excellent isopod to add to your collection! Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia Classification: Armadillidiadae > Cubaris > Cubaris Murina  Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Active both day and night Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Sp Blue Pigeon is a less common Cubaris species in the hobby and perhaps even underrated compared to it's fancy cousins like the rubber ducky and so on. They come in various shades of gray to deep blue. Mancae and juveniles tend to be beige in color taking on their full color closer to adulthood. They are fairly hardy for a cubaris and quite prolific breeders once established. They make excellent bioactive janitors breaking down waste quickly and efficiently. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Blue Pigeon isopods do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will yield a fast growing culture within a time frame of 3-4 months. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Blue Pigeons enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  If you have a semi tropical, to tropical enclosure and are in need of a bioactive clean up crew suited for these conditions, the Blue Pigeon is a highly ideal candidate for your needs. Simply give them consistent temperatures and the humidity they need and they will produce and work so long as these parameters are kept in check. Their multiple shades or blue and gray are a nice touch and they are not extremely sensitive like many other cubaris types.   Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Blue Pigeon  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity in larger cultures is normal. Care Level: Intermediate

The Cappuccino isopod has a timeless appeal with it's smooth creamy off white and accents surrounding various shades of light and dark brown. They instantly conjure up thoughts of warm coffee drinks making it easy to see how they got their trade name. They typically rank quite high on anyone's want list who is enchanted by the world of isopods being on par with similar species like it's cousin the Rubber Ducky. If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have some experience and a firm foundation with isopod husbandry. Most Cubaris species with a few exceptions are considered an advanced far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Like many other Cubaris, Cappuccinos are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Cappuccino isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking at least a few months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Cappuccino isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Cappuccinos do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris, Cappuccinos are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well. Cappuccinos do require a higher level of care and upkeep than your standard run of the mill types. But if you can meet these needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your Cappuccinos will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Advanced

Cubaris Sp. Citrus Panda King is a unique morph derived from the Red Panda King. They are a bright orange to deep red coloring, sometimes with a touch of white on their rumps or sides. Panda Kings can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Citrus Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day. 

The Orange Freezy Isopod is possibly one of the most strikingly bright and vibrant isopods in the hobby today. It rich vibrant orange hues make it stand out in any enclosure. Though considered an advanced species, most anyone with modest or more isopod experience can keep this exceptional specimen without too much extra fuss far as care goes. If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have a firm foundation with isopod husbandry. Most Cubaris species with a few exceptions are highly sensitive and need strict consistent environmental parameters to keep them alive and healthy. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. Keep in mind "pretty" often comes with extra commitment! First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Like many other Cubaris, Orange Freezys tend to be shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Orange Freezy isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking at least a few months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanicals to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Orange Freezy isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Orange Freezy does not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris isopods are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is a favorite as well. Orange Freezy does require a higher level of care and upkeep than your standard run of the mill types. But if you can meet these needs and most importantly keep them consistent, these outstanding isopods will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Advanced

Cubaris Sp. Panda King is a classic isopod ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. They have grey and white banding, that conjures the likeness of a panda bear hence their common trade name. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like radishes, carrots, zucchini and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  While this endearing cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis.  Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Panda King Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day.   Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Sp. RED Panda King is a unique isopod that can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. Red Panda King is a color morph of the common Panda King. Instead of the grey and white banding, the grey sections are replaced with a bright orange to deep red coloring in that section. They still retail the off white section in the center section of the perion. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. See our full care guide for Cubaris Sp."Red Panda King" which has comprehensive expanded details for this beginner friendly Cubaris isopod species. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day. 

Cubaris Sp. Red Tiger is a relatively rare specimen in the hobby at this time. This interesting species is adorned with reddish orange stripes of variable patterns. It's believed this pattern is an evolved camouflage that blends in well with dark damp tree bark and forest floor debris in their natural habitat ranging across south east Asia, most notably Thailand. Red Tigers are best described as a medium level isopod in terms of care requirements and propagation. As with most cubaris, they are a little bit more on the needy side and we strongly recommend against purchasing this species unless you have a firm foundation and understanding of isopod husbandry gained from cultivating less challenging species that are fit in the beginner friendly category. A few key disclosures that are important to know if you are pressing forward. First, Red Tiger is a bit on the smaller side with adults reaching around 0.75 to 0.80 inch max. But perhaps the most vital key point you should be aware of is that this species is extremely shy and flighty. They often run away quite fast (for an isopod) when they are exposed such as when flipping over a piece of bark. As such, you should do all that is possible to avoid disturbing them as this can lead to high stress levels which leads to worse things like die off. We virtually never rummage around our breeding enclosure unless it's absolutely needed for basic husbandry. They are nocturnal and will cautiously make there way about under the cover of darkness to forage. This is the best time observe them without causing undue stress. As with any species, as population increases in a given space you will likely see them out and about more so than if you only have a small starter culture of 6 to 12. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Red Tigers is 74-82F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Red Tigers do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Isopods are detrivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood.. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy small chunks of Texas holy rock.  While this designer cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types.   Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia and Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Red Tiger  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Care Level: Intermediate

The coveted Rubber Ducky is quite likely a huge part of why the isopod hobby has quickly grown from odd and reclusive to main stream. Who couldn't fall in love with their brilliant contrasting colors and adorable duck face like features? Outside of folks who just need a simple effective clean up crew for an enclosure, the Rubber Ducky isopod is an essential component and must have for any hobbyist or collector.  But that cuteness does have some strings attached if you want to have a thriving culture and enjoy these top tier crustaceans. Firstly, this NOT an ideal isopod for beginners with zero experience or understanding of general isopod keeping and husbandry. Most Cubaris with a few exceptions are considered an advanced species far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. There is a wealth of information out there about how to care for these isopods and get the best results. As with almost any topic, if you read enough you will find some details from one source do not always 100% line up with another. There are many fine points that are legit debatable and many of these come from respectable experienced keepers. Our mantra is not to say who is potentially right or wrong or squabble about micro details. But only to provide you the best practices which is largely the relevant straight forward needs of this designer isopod so you can share your success with others. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Ducky Isopods are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Rubber Ducky Isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking up to 3-4 months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Ducky Isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Rubber Duckies do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Rubber Duckys are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our Duckys as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well.In conclusion when compared to many other isopods, Rubber Duckies are certainly a bit more "needy". But if you can meet their care needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your Rubber Duckies will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Rubber Ducky Characteristics: Classic cute ducky face and colors! Needs specific environmental parameters to thrive. They tend to stay clustered under cork bark and burrow in the substrate. Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75" to "0.80" Care Level: Advanced  

First and foremost be aware this is a DWARF isopod species. This means it is SMALL. Average adult size is about 1/4 inch or 6 to 8 mm. If you already know this obvious fact or it's not a deal breaker then read on. Cubaris Sp. White Shark is a beginner friendly Cubaris species that has exceptionally exquisite colors that might make you think twice about passing this gem up due to it's smaller size. They have sequential sections of orange, black and white and are absolutely fascinating little creatures. As with all other isopods, the color intensity and sections varies to some degree per isopod. On some the black may be more of a navy blue and the orange might be reddish-orange. These are living creatures and not manufactured merchandise so please understand this fact of genetics and small variations. White Sharks are among the few in the Cubaris genus that are actually not exceedingly sensitive or difficult to keep. While most if not all Cubaris isopods do have some extra needs, the White Shark is a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out quickly if parameters go astray for a short period of time. Their husbandry is very straight forward and on par with other Cubaris like Panda King or any Murina type. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is beyond sufficient for a small starter culture. You don't want to start off with much bigger than this unless you are getting or already have a large number of White Sharks on hand. Being dwarf isopods, if they are too spread out it will take much longer for them to find each other and start reproducing. Conversely you don't want too small either as environmental changes in a very small space happen much faster which isn't a good thing for this and most other isopod types. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. White Sharks do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. They do like to burrow so make sure your substrate is at least 3-4 inches deep. This also helps if things start to get dry on the top layer. They will simply dig down where there is more moisture until conditions on the surface are more to their liking. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. Some cuttle bone pieces are always a welcome treat as well. While this desirable Cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods. Though they are very small, in high numbers they are generally more visible which means you can enjoy and appreciate their beautiful coloration. A small piece of carrot placed in their enclosure will end up "caked" with adults and babies feasting and is a great way to observe them without stressing them by digging around to find them. They can be seen to some extent during the day, but they are primarily nocturnal. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. A dozen or so within a matter of 2-3 months can quickly multiply long as their care is proper and consistent. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > White Shark Average Size: 1/3" to 1/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Intermediate

Cylisticus Convexus originates from Europe but now can be found on nearly every major continent with human habitation. They're a very adaptable species able to thrive in a multitude of climates ranging from semi arid to semi tropical. They're  sometimes referred to as the "Curly Isopod" or "Teardrop Isopod" due to the fact when they roll into the classic defensive ball, it's only does so partially creating more of an oval shape than a sphere like many other isopod species. This particular type dubbed the "Ukraine Pied", originates from individuals collected in Ukraine showing the black and white dalmatian pattern. These original specimens were then further refined with selective breeding as to have a visually appealing amount of contrast. This isopod is on par with the well known powder blue or powder orange in terms of overall general care. They are a very easy species to keep and can become quite prolific once well established. They tend to burrow into the substrate to some degree so some additional depth is of benefit. They are nocturnal and will quickly scurry to hide or burrow if exposed to bright lighting. But they are truly enjoyable to observe at night as they will come out in force with no reservations moving all about their enclosure foraging and searching for food.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the low to mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Around one half to one third of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side. This species will do fine in almost any type of environmental set up so long as it isn't completely over saturated or too arid with little to no moisture. We find an average moisture gradient works well with this species. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. Ukraine Pied isopods are fond of protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. They do have an impressive feeding response when offered such items. Almost like a swarm of piranhas, they will cluster all over the food source and devour it quickly. But this is mostly only at night or in low light settings. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pestsCylisticus Convexus Ukraine Pied is a great choice for clean up crew in a wide variety of environmental enclosure types. They are very good and quickly breaking down any type of decaying plant or organic materials. They're also a great first isopod if you're new to the hobby. Just know they aren't the best display type unless you are a night person as well. They won't be seen much during the daylight hours. So long as you ensure they don't dry out and offer them a reasonable amount of supplemental food items, they will multiply and flourish without any needed extended efforts on your behalf. Quick Facts Origin: Ukraine Taxonomy: Cylisticidae > Cylisticus > Cylisticus Convexus Average Size: 0.50" inch to 0.60" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Difficulty: Easy