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Armadillidium Vulgare "St Lucia"
$1.75
St. Lucia Isopods, also sometimes referred to as "Jelly Bean" isopods in the hobby are a must have if a display isopod is high on your list. It's easy to see where the common name jelly bean came from. This version of Armadillidium Vulgare has an assortment of bright vivid colors including various hues of orange, yellow, gold, light pinks and deep red along with some wild type colors ranging from gray to almost black. Even better, this genetic morph also has other variations within those colors such as defined segmented stripes, dalmatian patterns and some with infused gold metallic splotching. It should be noted all of these colors and characteristics can and do vary with each and every individual. Intensity and frequency of colors and patterns are all over the chart. The offspring will also come out the same variety of colors regardless of the coloration of the parents.
Armadillidium Vulgare is a very common isopod species and the one most people are referring to when the iconic term "pill bug" or "roly poly". They are native to Europe, most notably in the Mediterranean basin area but have established themselves nearly worldwide. They are a beginner friendly species being fairly flexible in their needs and tolerant of a variety of environmental conditions. Armadillidium Vulgare is a relatively outgoing isopod that can be seen exploring and moving about their enclosure at various times. As with most isopods, higher numbers means higher visibility.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture of these beauties. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature around the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. A. Vulgare prefers a temperate climate with good ventilation. Around one third to half of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side, but not completely devoid of some moisture. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. While this isopod is also a great bio custodian, it should be noted they have a reputation for munching on live plants as well. We can attest to this after trying several times to have various small plants in the enclosure with all being completely consumed in a few days or less.Armadillidium Vulgare "Saint Lucia" is an easy species to keep and is fairly forgiving with the learning curves of new keepers or the occasional memory lapse. Their visually appealing variety of colors combined with the fact they are modestly day active instead of hiding the bulk majority of the time means this is an isopod you can actually enjoy and appreciate all hours of the day or night. See our store front for many other fascinating and unique isopods!
Quick Facts
Origin: Mediterranean Europe
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Armadillidium > A. Vulgare
Characteristics: Various mix of bright colors ranging from orange, red, yellow, gray, black and more! They also have a mix of striping, splotching, and some with metallic sheens.
Average Size: 1/" tp 3/4" inch
Activity level: Active both day and night
Difficulty: Easy
Armadillidium Werneri Orange
$5.00
A. Werneri is actually one of the larger Armadillidiums reaching sizes of up to 0.85" inch in length and they are fairly bulky as well. This gives reason for their common name in the hobby of "Greater Clown Isopod". They tend to be on the shy side and stay hidden during most daylight hours only coming out to forage and explore when it's dark. But larger cultures will exhibit some level of daytime activity. The orange coloring varies slightly from individual to individual with the middle section usually a bit darker than the edges. But overall nice bright coloring with attractive contrasting white spotting from the head to end section.
For housing, a 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture of 12 to 25 individuals. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanicals to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature around the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Avoid temperatures lower than the mid 60sF and no higher than 80F. Like it's Klugii cousins, A. Werneri prefers it's climate slightly drier overall with easy access to a moist area when they need to re-hydrate their gills. Around one quarter to one third of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side, but not completely devoid of some moisture. It's not an issue to let it get drier than most other isopods may need, but do avoid allowing it to become 100% bone dry. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas as needed to maintain their needed ambient humidity levels. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. A longer piece that straddles both the moist and drier area also seems to be beneficial for this species.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Marbleized Isopods relish food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also appreciate some protein once or twice a week so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests.
A. Werneri Orange is not overly difficult to keep so long as you consistently provide the proper environment they need to thrive. They do tend to be on the slower side to reproduce, so understand it takes patience and time to see a few turn into many. At least 4-6 months of good care before you will notice tiny mancae in the substrate. They are also on the slower side to mature to breeding age taking 6+ months before they can contribute to increasing numbers. These facts are likely one of the biggest reasons this isopod is not quite common and readily available being somewhat hard to find. But they are an amazing and rewarding addition worth having in any collection!
Quick Facts
Origin: Greece and select Turkish islands
Family Classification: Armadillidiidae > Armadillidium > A. Werneri
Average Size: Between 0.80" to 0.85" inch
Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity is common with larger established cultures
Difficulty: Intermediate
Cristarmadillidium Muricatum Spiky Pineapple Isopod
$8.00
First and foremost be aware this is a DWARF isopod species. This means it's SMALL. Average adult size is about 1/4 inch or 6 to 8 mm. If you already know this obvious fact or it's not a deal breaker then read on. Spiky Pineapple Isopods are an intermediate skill level species most anyone with at least some successful isopod experience can easy keep and enjoy. As their name implies, their exterior is adorned with little spiky nubs that are in no way actually sharp or anything to be concerned about. They vary in color, mostly a washed out orange to light yellow. They are nocturnal and tend to form tight clusters underneath of cork bard or decayed wood and come out at night to feed and forage. Their spectacular appearance more than makes up for their smaller size and are a rewarding species to keep.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is beyond sufficient for a small starter culture. You don't want to start off with much bigger than this unless you are getting or already have a large number of these isopods on hand. Being dwarf isopods, if they are too spread out it will take much longer for them to find each other and start reproducing. Conversely you don't want too small either as environmental changes in a very small space happen much faster which isn't a good thing for this and most other isopod types. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine. A good temperature range is 72-78F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Spiky Pineapples do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry so allow for some ventilation. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Keeping your substrate at least 3-4 inches deep also helps retain humidity and gives them some room to burrow if things get too dry. They will simply dig down where there is more moisture until conditions on the surface are more to their liking.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Spiky Pineapples enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Supplemental calcium is recommended as well. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. Some cuttle bone pieces are always a welcome treat as well.
Spiky Pineapples have shot up in popularity as of recent and we are happy to offer some of our quality in house specimens for your terrarium! They are not extremely difficult like some Cubaris, but they do require a little bit more upkeep and monitoring to ensure their environment stays optimal. Their pleasant contrasting colors look great in the terrarium and even though they typically not too visible at day, they do come out in force once the day light hours have ended.
Quick Facts
Origin: Spain. Mostly in the Iberian Peninsula region
Classification: Cristarmadillidium > Cristarmadillidium Muricatum
Average Size:1/4" inch
Activity level: Primarily nocturnal
Care Level: Intermediate
Cubaris Murina- Glacier
$3.00
Cubaris Murina Glacier is a great isopod for many applications from bio-active custodian, classroom educational setting or of course just as a unique pet. They are a true albino lacking any pigmentation. Even their eyes are white! The dark area running down their center line is the digestive tract. Since they are semi translucent, the color(s) of foods fed may be visible from the inside. For example, feeding them carrots will show a very unmistakable white-ish orange color until they have fully digested. Cubaris Murina is among the easiest of the Cubaris Genus to keep not being quite as sensitive and demanding as it's many other cousins.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. C. Murina do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.
In addition to the glacier morph seen here, there are many other color morphs available ranging from grey, pink, orange and a few others as well! Starter and smaller cultures are somewhat reclusive, but they are noticeable more bold in higher numbers. Our large cultures are active both day and night and can always be seen moving about in their enclosure. With only a few non demanding needs outside of "typical isopod care", Cubaris Murina is no doubt an excellent isopod to add to your collection!
Quick Facts
Origin: Southeast Asia
Classification: Armadillidiadae > Cubaris > Cubaris Murina
Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch
Activity level: Active both day and night
Care Level: Intermediate
Cubaris Murina- Papaya
$3.00
Cubaris Murina Papaya is a great isopod for many applications from bio-active custodian, classroom educational setting or of course just as a unique pet. They are a pleasant semi translucent light pink color that can border orange on some specimens. Cubaris Murina is among the easiest of the Cubaris Genus to keep not being quite as sensitive and demanding as it's many other cousins.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. C. Murina do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.
In addition to the glacier morph seen here, there are many other color morphs available ranging from grey, white, orange and a few others as well! Starter and smaller cultures are somewhat reclusive, but they are noticeable more bold in higher numbers. Our large cultures are active both day and night and can always be seen moving about in their enclosure. With only a few non demanding needs outside of "typical isopod care", Cubaris Murina is no doubt an excellent isopod to add to your collection!
Quick Facts
Origin: Southeast Asia
Classification: Armadillidiadae > Cubaris > Cubaris Murina
Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch
Activity level: Active both day and night
Care Level: Intermediate
Cubaris Sp. Blue Pigeon
$4.00
Cubaris Sp Blue Pigeon is a less common Cubaris species in the hobby and perhaps even underrated compared to it's fancy cousins like the rubber ducky and so on. They come in various shades of gray to deep blue. Mancae and juveniles tend to be beige in color taking on their full color closer to adulthood. They are fairly hardy for a cubaris and quite prolific breeders once established. They make excellent bioactive janitors breaking down waste quickly and efficiently.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Blue Pigeon isopods do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will yield a fast growing culture within a time frame of 3-4 months. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Blue Pigeons enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.
If you have a semi tropical, to tropical enclosure and are in need of a bioactive clean up crew suited for these conditions, the Blue Pigeon is a highly ideal candidate for your needs. Simply give them consistent temperatures and the humidity they need and they will produce and work so long as these parameters are kept in check. Their multiple shades or blue and gray are a nice touch and they are not extremely sensitive like many other cubaris types.
Quick Facts
Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Blue Pigeon
Average Size: 3/4" inch
Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity in larger cultures is normal.
Care Level: Intermediate
Cubaris Sp. Cappuccino
$10.00
The Cappuccino isopod has a timeless appeal with it's smooth creamy off white and accents surrounding various shades of light and dark brown. They instantly conjure up thoughts of warm coffee drinks making it easy to see how they got their trade name. They typically rank quite high on anyone's want list who is enchanted by the world of isopods being on par with similar species like it's cousin the Rubber Ducky.
If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have some experience and a firm foundation with isopod husbandry. Most Cubaris species with a few exceptions are considered an advanced far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time.
First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Like many other Cubaris, Cappuccinos are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Cappuccino isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking at least a few months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Cappuccino isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Cappuccinos do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris, Cappuccinos are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well.
Cappuccinos do require a higher level of care and upkeep than your standard run of the mill types. But if you can meet these needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your Cappuccinos will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time.
Quick Facts
Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.
Average Size: 3/4" inch
Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night
Care Level: Advanced
Cubaris Sp. Citrus Panda King
$3.50
Cubaris Sp. Citrus Panda King is a unique morph derived from the Red Panda King. They are a bright orange to deep red coloring, sometimes with a touch of white on their rumps or sides. Panda Kings can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.
While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis.
Quick Facts
Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Citrus
Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch
Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day.
Cubaris Sp. Happy Nun
$4.00
Cubaris Sp. Happy Nun is a smaller Cubaris native to Thailand averaging about 1/2 inch in size. What they lack in size, they make up for in color! Their base can range from dark gray to a medium beige. Most have intricate translucent bronze markings though the amount and intensity varies from individual to individual. All of this is outlined with a creamy white edging which overall gives them a nice contrast. These isopods move quite fast compared to most others and quickly dart away if exposed or frightened. They are not overly difficult to keep, but as Cubaris they do have a few extra requirements beyond typical isopod 101.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Happy Nun is 74-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Happy Nuns do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. The substrate should at least 4-6 inches to allow for burrowing and extra moisture retention. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Do allow some ventilation so the air and substrate does not become stagnant.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris isopods Happy Nuns are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is a favorite as well.
Happy nuns once established will produce medium sized broods on a fairly regular basis. They are an active isopod and will often be seen moving about, more so in the twilight hours and night times. Their variable color patterns and overall ease of care make them a great choice for the sub tropical to tropical terrarium. They are outstanding bio janitors and will work diligently to minimize plant and organic waste materials.
Quick Facts
Origin: Thailand
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.
Average Size: 1/2” inch
Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night
Care Level: Intermediate
Cubaris Sp. Lemon Blue 5ct
$249.95
Due to it's sensitive nature and higher value, this isopod is an exception compared to how all others are offered on our site. They come in exact 5 count quantities only and require a "Hold for Pick Up" shipping method when checking out. Overnight shipping is highly recommended for this species!
The Cubaris Sp. Lemon Blue Isopod ranks among the most coveted and desirable of isopods in the hobby today surpassed only by the Ember Bee varieties. It's deep navy blue surrounded by blazing bright yellow makes it nothing short of breath taking!
Unfortunately, they can be very challenging to keep and reproduce painfully slow. This is largely why they are so rare and command such high prices. For those reasons we HIGHLY recommended that only thoroughly experienced keepers considering purchasing this isopod species. It's an investment not just in money, but also in committing to strict care regimens and maintaining them consistently which is what this isopod requires to thrive.
A known issue with this isopod is that their bright and vibrant colors can sometimes fade over time. This is caused by poor diet and inbreeding. This can be mitigated by ensuring they have a diet rich in carotene and Astaxanthin. Items like carrots, squash and sweet potatoes are a great source of carotene while Astaxanthin can be delivered in shrimp pellets and color enhancing fish food. If you're fortunate enough to see offspring at some point, that is an ideal time to find new additions from a different source as to ensure genetic diversification in your culture. All of our specimens for sale have solid vibrant colors.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 5-10 individuals. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. These isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. 72F to 80F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction as they typically will not fare well with large sudden changes. They also don't need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they like to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Lemon Blues are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. Small chunks of Texas Holy Rock are readily utilized and a favorite hide out for our Lemon Blues.
The Lemon Blue isopod is a slow breeder and even with the best of care will take 4-6 months on average before seeing small broods. Providing the environment they need is not hard, the challenge is keeping it consistent and not allowing parameters to swing too far in short periods of time. But if you can get them dialed in properly and maintain that, they will do well with patience and time. It's taken well over a year just to produce the limited amounts of specimens we can offer here from time to time.
Quick Facts
Origin: Thailand
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Lemon Blue
Characteristics: Deep navy blue surrounded by bright yellow. Very sensitive to environmental changes
Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours.
Average Size: 0.75"
Care Level: Advanced
Cubaris Sp. Orange Freezy
$10.00
The Orange Freezy Isopod is possibly one of the most strikingly bright and vibrant isopods in the hobby today. It rich vibrant orange hues make it stand out in any enclosure. Though considered an advanced species, most anyone with modest or more isopod experience can keep this exceptional specimen without too much extra fuss far as care goes.
If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have a firm foundation with isopod husbandry. Most Cubaris species with a few exceptions are highly sensitive and need strict consistent environmental parameters to keep them alive and healthy. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. Keep in mind "pretty" often comes with extra commitment!
First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Like many other Cubaris, Orange Freezys tend to be shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Orange Freezy isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking at least a few months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanicals to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Orange Freezy isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Orange Freezy does not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris isopods are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is a favorite as well.
Orange Freezy does require a higher level of care and upkeep than your standard run of the mill types. But if you can meet these needs and most importantly keep them consistent, these outstanding isopods will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time.
Quick Facts
Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.
Average Size: 3/4" inch
Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night
Care Level: Advanced
Cubaris Sp. Panda King
$2.25
Cubaris Sp. Panda King is a classic isopod ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. They have grey and white banding, that conjures the likeness of a panda bear hence their common trade name. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like radishes, carrots, zucchini and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.
While this endearing cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis.
Quick Facts
Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Panda King
Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch
Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day.
Care Level: Intermediate
Cubaris Sp. Red Panda King
$3.00
Cubaris Sp. RED Panda King is a unique isopod that can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. Red Panda King is a color morph of the common Panda King. Instead of the grey and white banding, the grey sections are replaced with a bright orange to deep red coloring in that section. They still retail the off white section in the center section of the perion. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.
While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. See our full care guide for Cubaris Sp."Red Panda King" which has comprehensive expanded details for this beginner friendly Cubaris isopod species.
Quick Facts
Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.
Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch
Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day.
Cubaris Sp. Red Tiger
$8.00
Cubaris Sp. Red Tiger is a relatively rare specimen in the hobby at this time. This interesting species is adorned with reddish orange stripes of variable patterns. It's believed this pattern is an evolved camouflage that blends in well with dark damp tree bark and forest floor debris in their natural habitat ranging across south east Asia, most notably Thailand. Red Tigers are best described as a medium level isopod in terms of care requirements and propagation. As with most cubaris, they are a little bit more on the needy side and we strongly recommend against purchasing this species unless you have a firm foundation and understanding of isopod husbandry gained from cultivating less challenging species that are fit in the beginner friendly category.
A few key disclosures that are important to know if you are pressing forward. First, Red Tiger is a bit on the smaller side with adults reaching around 0.75 to 0.80 inch max. But perhaps the most vital key point you should be aware of is that this species is extremely shy and flighty. They often run away quite fast (for an isopod) when they are exposed such as when flipping over a piece of bark. As such, you should do all that is possible to avoid disturbing them as this can lead to high stress levels which leads to worse things like die off. We virtually never rummage around our breeding enclosure unless it's absolutely needed for basic husbandry. They are nocturnal and will cautiously make there way about under the cover of darkness to forage. This is the best time observe them without causing undue stress. As with any species, as population increases in a given space you will likely see them out and about more so than if you only have a small starter culture of 6 to 12.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Red Tigers is 74-82F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Red Tigers do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed.
Isopods are detrivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood.. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy small chunks of Texas holy rock.
While this designer cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types.
Quick Facts
Origin: Southeast Asia and Thailand
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Red Tiger
Average Size: 3/4" inch
Activity level: Primarily nocturnal
Care Level: Intermediate
Cubaris Sp. Rubber Bee
$8.00
Cubaris Sp. Rubber Bee is a medium sized isopod from Thailand with a flashy tricolor appearance valued by collectors and hobbyist alike. They have a bright yellow face followed by a deep navy to black midsection complimented with a white to off white color on their rumps. Rubber Bees are an endearing species and tend to be more day active than most of their other Cubaris cousins.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is beyond sufficient for a small starter culture of 6-10 individuals and could comfortably accommodate about 30-40 individuals until something larger may be needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. These isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. 72F to 80F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction as they typically do not fare well with large sudden changes. They also don't need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they like to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Rubber Bees are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur.
The Rubber Bee isopod is a generally slow to moderate breeder and requires a strict care regimen to thrive. Providing the environment they need is not hard, the only challenge is keeping it consistent and not allowing parameters to swing too far in short periods of time. But if you can get them dialed in properly and maintain that, they will do well with patience and time. Once momentum is set, they will reproduce readily nearly year round and deliver plenty of wows with their dazzling colors!
Quick Facts
Origin: Thailand
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Snow Bee
Characteristics: Flashy tricolor appearance. Modestly prolific once established.
Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours.
Average Size: 0.50" to "0.60"
Care Level: Intermediate
Cubaris Sp. Rubber Ducky
$12.00
The coveted Rubber Ducky is quite likely a huge part of why the isopod hobby has quickly grown from odd and reclusive to main stream. Who couldn't fall in love with their brilliant contrasting colors and adorable duck face like features? Outside of folks who just need a simple effective clean up crew for an enclosure, the Rubber Ducky isopod is an essential component and must have for any hobbyist or collector.
But that cuteness does have some strings attached if you want to have a thriving culture and enjoy these top tier crustaceans. Firstly, this NOT an ideal isopod for beginners with zero experience or understanding of general isopod keeping and husbandry. Most Cubaris with a few exceptions are considered an advanced species far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time.
There is a wealth of information out there about how to care for these isopods and get the best results. As with almost any topic, if you read enough you will find some details from one source do not always 100% line up with another. There are many fine points that are legit debatable and many of these come from respectable experienced keepers. Our mantra is not to say who is potentially right or wrong or squabble about micro details. But only to provide you the best practices which is largely the relevant straight forward needs of this designer isopod so you can share your success with others.
First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Ducky Isopods are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes.
A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Rubber Ducky Isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking up to 3-4 months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Ducky Isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Rubber Duckies do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs.
Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Rubber Duckys are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our Duckys as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well.In conclusion when compared to many other isopods, Rubber Duckies are certainly a bit more "needy". But if you can meet their care needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your Rubber Duckies will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time.
Quick Facts
Origin: Thailand
Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Rubber Ducky
Characteristics: Classic cute ducky face and colors! Needs specific environmental parameters to thrive. They tend to stay clustered under cork bark and burrow in the substrate.
Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours.
Average Size: 0.75" to "0.80"
Care Level: Advanced