Isopod

The Cappuccino isopod has a timeless appeal with it's smooth creamy off white and accents surrounding various shades of light and dark brown. They instantly conjure up thoughts of warm coffee drinks making it easy to see how they got their trade name. They typically rank quite high on anyone's want list who is enchanted by the world of isopods being on par with similar species like it's cousin the Rubber Ducky. If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have some experience and a firm foundation with isopod husbandry. Most Cubaris species with a few exceptions are considered an advanced far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Like many other Cubaris, Cappuccinos are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Cappuccino isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking at least a few months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Cappuccino isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Cappuccinos do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris, Cappuccinos are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well. Cappuccinos do require a higher level of care and upkeep than your standard run of the mill types. But if you can meet these needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your Cappuccinos will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Advanced

Cubaris Sp. Citrus Panda King is a unique morph derived from the Red Panda King. They are a bright orange to deep red coloring, sometimes with a touch of white on their rumps or sides. Panda Kings can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Citrus Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day. 

 Cubaris Sp. Happy Nun is a smaller Cubaris native to Thailand averaging about 1/2 inch in size. What they lack in size, they make up for in color! Their base can range from dark gray to a medium beige. Most have intricate translucent bronze markings though the amount and intensity varies from individual to individual. All of this is outlined with a creamy white edging which overall gives them a nice contrast. These isopods move quite fast compared to most others and quickly dart away if exposed or frightened. They are not overly difficult to keep, but as Cubaris they do have a few extra requirements beyond typical isopod 101. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Happy Nun is 74-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Happy Nuns do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. The substrate should at least 4-6 inches to allow for burrowing and extra moisture retention. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Do allow some ventilation so the air and substrate does not become stagnant. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris isopods Happy Nuns are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is a favorite as well. Happy nuns once established will produce medium sized broods on a fairly regular basis. They are an active isopod and will often be seen moving about, more so in the twilight hours and night times. Their variable color patterns and overall ease of care make them a great choice for the sub tropical to tropical terrarium. They are outstanding bio janitors and will work diligently to minimize plant and organic waste materials. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 1/2” inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Intermediate

Due to it's sensitive nature and higher value, this isopod is an exception compared to how all others are offered on our site. They come in exact 5 count quantities only and require a "Hold for Pick Up" shipping method when checking out. Overnight shipping is highly recommended for this species!   The Cubaris Sp. Lemon Blue Isopod ranks among the most coveted and desirable of isopods in the hobby today surpassed only by the Ember Bee varieties. It's deep navy blue surrounded by blazing bright yellow makes it nothing short of breath taking! Unfortunately, they can be very challenging to keep and reproduce painfully slow. This is largely why they are so rare and command such high prices. For those reasons we HIGHLY recommended that only thoroughly experienced keepers considering purchasing this isopod species. It's an investment not just in money, but also in committing to strict care regimens and maintaining them consistently which is what this isopod requires to thrive.  A known issue with this isopod is that their bright and vibrant colors can sometimes fade over time. This is caused by poor diet and inbreeding. This can be mitigated by ensuring they have a diet rich in carotene and Astaxanthin. Items like carrots, squash and sweet potatoes are a great source of carotene while Astaxanthin can be delivered in shrimp pellets and color enhancing fish food. If you're fortunate enough to see offspring at some point, that is an ideal time to find new additions from a different source as to ensure genetic diversification in your culture. All of our specimens for sale have solid vibrant colors. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 5-10 individuals. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. These isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. 72F to 80F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction as they typically will not fare well with large sudden changes. They also don't need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they like to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Lemon Blues are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. Small chunks of Texas Holy Rock are readily utilized and a favorite hide out for our Lemon Blues. The Lemon Blue isopod is a slow breeder and even with the best of care will take 4-6 months on average before seeing small broods. Providing the environment they need is not hard, the challenge is keeping it consistent and not allowing parameters to swing too far in short periods of time. But if you can get them dialed in properly and maintain that, they will do well with patience and time. It's taken well over a year just to produce the limited amounts of specimens we can offer here from time to time. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Lemon Blue Characteristics: Deep navy blue surrounded by bright yellow. Very sensitive to environmental changes Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75"  Care Level: Advanced  

The Orange Freezy Isopod is possibly one of the most strikingly bright and vibrant isopods in the hobby today. It rich vibrant orange hues make it stand out in any enclosure. Though considered an advanced species, most anyone with modest or more isopod experience can keep this exceptional specimen without too much extra fuss far as care goes. If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have a firm foundation with isopod husbandry. Most Cubaris species with a few exceptions are highly sensitive and need strict consistent environmental parameters to keep them alive and healthy. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. Keep in mind "pretty" often comes with extra commitment! First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Like many other Cubaris, Orange Freezys tend to be shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Orange Freezy isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking at least a few months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanicals to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Orange Freezy isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Orange Freezy does not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris isopods are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is a favorite as well. Orange Freezy does require a higher level of care and upkeep than your standard run of the mill types. But if you can meet these needs and most importantly keep them consistent, these outstanding isopods will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Advanced

Cubaris Sp. Panda King is a classic isopod ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. They have grey and white banding, that conjures the likeness of a panda bear hence their common trade name. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like radishes, carrots, zucchini and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  While this endearing cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis.  Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Panda King Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day.   Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Sp. Red Edge is a visually striking isopod that has a bright red/orange skirt wrapped around a dark base giving them great contrast. As with most cubaris, they are a little bit more on the needy side but also not considered advanced or extremely sensitive like many of their other cubaris cousins. If you have a firm foundation in basic isopod husbandry and success keep other beginner friendly species, then Cubaris Sp. Red Edge is an ideal first step into the world of Cubaris isopods. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Red Edge is 74-82F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Red Edge isopods do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Isopods are detrivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Red Edge isopods enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy small chunks of Texas holy rock.  Cubaris Sp. Red Edge is a rewarding species to keep and will produce small to medium sized broods fairly consistently once established and a good care regimen is consistently maintained. They are most active at night and readily move about and explore their surroundings under cover of darkness. Their relative low demands combined with their visually appealing colors make them a popular choice among many keepers and hobbyist. Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia and Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 3/4” inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Sp. RED Panda King is a unique isopod that can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. Red Panda King is a color morph of the common Panda King. Instead of the grey and white banding, the grey sections are replaced with a bright orange to deep red coloring in that section. They still retail the off white section in the center section of the perion. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. See our full care guide for Cubaris Sp."Red Panda King" which has comprehensive expanded details for this beginner friendly Cubaris isopod species. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day. 

Cubaris Sp. Red Tiger is a relatively rare specimen in the hobby at this time. This interesting species is adorned with reddish orange stripes of variable patterns. It's believed this pattern is an evolved camouflage that blends in well with dark damp tree bark and forest floor debris in their natural habitat ranging across south east Asia, most notably Thailand. Red Tigers are best described as a medium level isopod in terms of care requirements and propagation. As with most cubaris, they are a little bit more on the needy side and we strongly recommend against purchasing this species unless you have a firm foundation and understanding of isopod husbandry gained from cultivating less challenging species that are fit in the beginner friendly category. A few key disclosures that are important to know if you are pressing forward. First, Red Tiger is a bit on the smaller side with adults reaching around 0.75 to 0.80 inch max. But perhaps the most vital key point you should be aware of is that this species is extremely shy and flighty. They often run away quite fast (for an isopod) when they are exposed such as when flipping over a piece of bark. As such, you should do all that is possible to avoid disturbing them as this can lead to high stress levels which leads to worse things like die off. We virtually never rummage around our breeding enclosure unless it's absolutely needed for basic husbandry. They are nocturnal and will cautiously make there way about under the cover of darkness to forage. This is the best time observe them without causing undue stress. As with any species, as population increases in a given space you will likely see them out and about more so than if you only have a small starter culture of 6 to 12. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Red Tigers is 74-82F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Red Tigers do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Isopods are detrivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood.. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy small chunks of Texas holy rock.  While this designer cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types.   Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia and Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Red Tiger  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Care Level: Intermediate

The coveted Rubber Ducky is quite likely a huge part of why the isopod hobby has quickly grown from odd and reclusive to main stream. Who couldn't fall in love with their brilliant contrasting colors and adorable duck face like features? Outside of folks who just need a simple effective clean up crew for an enclosure, the Rubber Ducky isopod is an essential component and must have for any hobbyist or collector.  But that cuteness does have some strings attached if you want to have a thriving culture and enjoy these top tier crustaceans. Firstly, this NOT an ideal isopod for beginners with zero experience or understanding of general isopod keeping and husbandry. Most Cubaris with a few exceptions are considered an advanced species far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. There is a wealth of information out there about how to care for these isopods and get the best results. As with almost any topic, if you read enough you will find some details from one source do not always 100% line up with another. There are many fine points that are legit debatable and many of these come from respectable experienced keepers. Our mantra is not to say who is potentially right or wrong or squabble about micro details. But only to provide you the best practices which is largely the relevant straight forward needs of this designer isopod so you can share your success with others. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Ducky Isopods are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Rubber Ducky Isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking up to 3-4 months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Ducky Isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Rubber Duckies do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Rubber Duckys are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our Duckys as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well.In conclusion when compared to many other isopods, Rubber Duckies are certainly a bit more "needy". But if you can meet their care needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your Rubber Duckies will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Rubber Ducky Characteristics: Classic cute ducky face and colors! Needs specific environmental parameters to thrive. They tend to stay clustered under cork bark and burrow in the substrate. Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75" to "0.80" Care Level: Advanced  

The Snow Bee Isopod is a visually appealing genetic variant of the Emperor Bee Isopod. The difference is the Snow Bee is hypomelanisitc which means it has a noticeably reduced amount of dark pigmentation. This is distinctly different from albinism, which results in a complete or near complete absence of melanin. This has caused some level of confusion in the hobby. Simply stated, They are both the same exact animal, the same species with the same taxonomic classification. One just has reduced pigmentation and the other does not. Snow Bees are easily distinguished by their overall lighter washed out appearance. The lighter bands can vary from off white to a pale creamy yellow while the center band can vary from a medium brown to a deep purple. Emperor Bees on the other hand have bright bold colors consisting of golden yellow up front, jet black in the middle and often  a touch of white on the rump area. It is not unusual to sometimes have a few Emperor bees show in broods derived from Snow Bee isopods. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 6-10 individuals. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. These isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. 72F to 80F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction as they typically do not fare well with large sudden changes. They also don't need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they like to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Snow Bees are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. The Snow Bee isopod is a generally slow to moderate breeder and requires a strict care regimen to thrive. Providing the environment they need is not hard, the only challenge is keeping it consistent and not allowing parameters to swing too far in short periods of time. But if you can get them dialed in properly and maintain that, they will do well with patience and time. Their frosty contrasting colors are very unique and make them a highly sought after specimen. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Snow Bee Characteristics: Hypomelanistic variant of thje Emporor Bee with a frosty pale appearance.  Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75" to "0.85" Care Level: Advanced  

The coveted Rubber Ducky is quite likely a huge part of why the isopod hobby has quickly grown from odd and reclusive to main stream. Who couldn't fall in love with their brilliant contrasting colors and adorable duck face like features? Outside of folks who just need a simple effective clean up crew for an enclosure, the Rubber Ducky isopod is an essential component and must have for any hobbyist or collector. This ultra rare variant features a nice contrasting black and white pattern. They almost look like they are wearing little tuxedos and are quite endearing. But that cuteness does have some strings attached if you want to have a thriving culture and enjoy these top tier crustaceans. Firstly, this NOT an ideal isopod for beginners with zero experience or understanding of general isopod keeping and husbandry. Most Cubaris with a few exceptions are considered an advanced species far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. There is a wealth of information out there about how to care for these isopods and get the best results. As with almost any topic, if you read enough you will find some details from one source do not always 100% line up with another. There are many fine points that are legit debatable and many of these come from respectable experienced keepers. Our mantra is not to say who is potentially right or wrong or squabble about micro details. But only to provide you the best practices which is largely the relevant straight forward needs of this rare designer isopod so you can share your success with others. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Ducky Isopods are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. White Ducky Isopods are very slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking up to 4-6 months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Ducky Isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. White Duckies do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. White Duckys are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our Duckys as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well.In conclusion when compared to many other isopods, White Duckies are certainly a bit more "needy". But if you can meet their care needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your White Duckies will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Rubber Ducky Characteristics: Classic cute ducky face and colors! Needs specific environmental parameters to thrive. Rare and slow to reproduce. Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75" to "0.85" Care Level: Advanced  

Cylisticus Convexus originates from Europe but now can be found on nearly every major continent with human habitation. They're a very adaptable species able to thrive in a multitude of climates ranging from semi arid to semi tropical. They're  sometimes referred to as the "Curly Isopod" or "Teardrop Isopod" due to the fact when they roll into the classic defensive ball, it's only does so partially creating more of an oval shape than a sphere like many other isopod species. This particular type dubbed the "Ukraine Pied", originates from individuals collected in Ukraine showing the black and white dalmatian pattern. These original specimens were then further refined with selective breeding as to have a visually appealing amount of contrast. This isopod is on par with the well known powder blue or powder orange in terms of overall general care. They are a very easy species to keep and can become quite prolific once well established. They tend to burrow into the substrate to some degree so some additional depth is of benefit. They are nocturnal and will quickly scurry to hide or burrow if exposed to bright lighting. But they are truly enjoyable to observe at night as they will come out in force with no reservations moving all about their enclosure foraging and searching for food.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the low to mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Around one half to one third of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side. This species will do fine in almost any type of environmental set up so long as it isn't completely over saturated or too arid with little to no moisture. We find an average moisture gradient works well with this species. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. Ukraine Pied isopods are fond of protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. They do have an impressive feeding response when offered such items. Almost like a swarm of piranhas, they will cluster all over the food source and devour it quickly. But this is mostly only at night or in low light settings. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pestsCylisticus Convexus Ukraine Pied is a great choice for clean up crew in a wide variety of environmental enclosure types. They are very good and quickly breaking down any type of decaying plant or organic materials. They're also a great first isopod if you're new to the hobby. Just know they aren't the best display type unless you are a night person as well. They won't be seen much during the daylight hours. So long as you ensure they don't dry out and offer them a reasonable amount of supplemental food items, they will multiply and flourish without any needed extended efforts on your behalf. Quick Facts Origin: Ukraine Taxonomy: Cylisticidae > Cylisticus > Cylisticus Convexus Average Size: 0.50" inch to 0.60" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Difficulty: Easy