Isopod

Cubaris Sp. Citrus Panda King is a unique morph derived from the Red Panda King. They are a bright orange to deep red coloring, sometimes with a touch of white on their rumps or sides. Panda Kings can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Citrus Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day. 

 Cubaris Sp. Happy Nun is a smaller Cubaris native to Thailand averaging about 1/2 inch in size. What they lack in size, they make up for in color! Their base can range from dark gray to a medium beige. Most have intricate translucent bronze markings though the amount and intensity varies from individual to individual. All of this is outlined with a creamy white edging which overall gives them a nice contrast. These isopods move quite fast compared to most others and quickly dart away if exposed or frightened. They are not overly difficult to keep, but as Cubaris they do have a few extra requirements beyond typical isopod 101. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Happy Nun is 74-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Happy Nuns do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. The substrate should at least 4-6 inches to allow for burrowing and extra moisture retention. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Do allow some ventilation so the air and substrate does not become stagnant. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris isopods Happy Nuns are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is a favorite as well. Happy nuns once established will produce medium sized broods on a fairly regular basis. They are an active isopod and will often be seen moving about, more so in the twilight hours and night times. Their variable color patterns and overall ease of care make them a great choice for the sub tropical to tropical terrarium. They are outstanding bio janitors and will work diligently to minimize plant and organic waste materials. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 1/2” inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Intermediate

The Orange Freezy Isopod is possibly one of the most strikingly bright and vibrant isopods in the hobby today. It rich vibrant orange hues make it stand out in any enclosure. Though considered an advanced species, most anyone with modest or more isopod experience can keep this exceptional specimen without too much extra fuss far as care goes. If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have a firm foundation with isopod husbandry. Most Cubaris species with a few exceptions are highly sensitive and need strict consistent environmental parameters to keep them alive and healthy. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. Keep in mind "pretty" often comes with extra commitment! First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Like many other Cubaris, Orange Freezys tend to be shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Orange Freezy isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking at least a few months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanicals to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Orange Freezy isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Orange Freezy does not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris isopods are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is a favorite as well. Orange Freezy does require a higher level of care and upkeep than your standard run of the mill types. But if you can meet these needs and most importantly keep them consistent, these outstanding isopods will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Advanced

Cubaris Sp. Red Edge is a visually striking isopod that has a bright red/orange skirt wrapped around a dark base giving them great contrast. As with most cubaris, they are a little bit more on the needy side but also not considered advanced or extremely sensitive like many of their other cubaris cousins. If you have a firm foundation in basic isopod husbandry and success keep other beginner friendly species, then Cubaris Sp. Red Edge is an ideal first step into the world of Cubaris isopods. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Red Edge is 74-82F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Red Edge isopods do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Isopods are detrivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Red Edge isopods enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy small chunks of Texas holy rock.  Cubaris Sp. Red Edge is a rewarding species to keep and will produce small to medium sized broods fairly consistently once established and a good care regimen is consistently maintained. They are most active at night and readily move about and explore their surroundings under cover of darkness. Their relative low demands combined with their visually appealing colors make them a popular choice among many keepers and hobbyist. Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia and Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 3/4” inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Sp. RED Panda King is a unique isopod that can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. Red Panda King is a color morph of the common Panda King. Instead of the grey and white banding, the grey sections are replaced with a bright orange to deep red coloring in that section. They still retail the off white section in the center section of the perion. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. See our full care guide for Cubaris Sp."Red Panda King" which has comprehensive expanded details for this beginner friendly Cubaris isopod species. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day. 

Cubaris Sp. Red Tiger is a relatively rare specimen in the hobby at this time. This interesting species is adorned with reddish orange stripes of variable patterns. It's believed this pattern is an evolved camouflage that blends in well with dark damp tree bark and forest floor debris in their natural habitat ranging across south east Asia, most notably Thailand. Red Tigers are best described as a medium level isopod in terms of care requirements and propagation. As with most cubaris, they are a little bit more on the needy side and we strongly recommend against purchasing this species unless you have a firm foundation and understanding of isopod husbandry gained from cultivating less challenging species that are fit in the beginner friendly category. A few key disclosures that are important to know if you are pressing forward. First, Red Tiger is a bit on the smaller side with adults reaching around 0.75 to 0.80 inch max. But perhaps the most vital key point you should be aware of is that this species is extremely shy and flighty. They often run away quite fast (for an isopod) when they are exposed such as when flipping over a piece of bark. As such, you should do all that is possible to avoid disturbing them as this can lead to high stress levels which leads to worse things like die off. We virtually never rummage around our breeding enclosure unless it's absolutely needed for basic husbandry. They are nocturnal and will cautiously make there way about under the cover of darkness to forage. This is the best time observe them without causing undue stress. As with any species, as population increases in a given space you will likely see them out and about more so than if you only have a small starter culture of 6 to 12. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Red Tigers is 74-82F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Red Tigers do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Isopods are detrivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood.. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy small chunks of Texas holy rock.  While this designer cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types.   Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia and Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Red Tiger  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Care Level: Intermediate

The coveted Rubber Ducky is quite likely a huge part of why the isopod hobby has quickly grown from odd and reclusive to main stream. Who couldn't fall in love with their brilliant contrasting colors and adorable duck face like features? Outside of folks who just need a simple effective clean up crew for an enclosure, the Rubber Ducky isopod is an essential component and must have for any hobbyist or collector.  But that cuteness does have some strings attached if you want to have a thriving culture and enjoy these top tier crustaceans. Firstly, this NOT an ideal isopod for beginners with zero experience or understanding of general isopod keeping and husbandry. Most Cubaris with a few exceptions are considered an advanced species far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. There is a wealth of information out there about how to care for these isopods and get the best results. As with almost any topic, if you read enough you will find some details from one source do not always 100% line up with another. There are many fine points that are legit debatable and many of these come from respectable experienced keepers. Our mantra is not to say who is potentially right or wrong or squabble about micro details. But only to provide you the best practices which is largely the relevant straight forward needs of this designer isopod so you can share your success with others. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Ducky Isopods are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Rubber Ducky Isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking up to 3-4 months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Ducky Isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Rubber Duckies do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Rubber Duckys are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our Duckys as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well.In conclusion when compared to many other isopods, Rubber Duckies are certainly a bit more "needy". But if you can meet their care needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your Rubber Duckies will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Rubber Ducky Characteristics: Classic cute ducky face and colors! Needs specific environmental parameters to thrive. They tend to stay clustered under cork bark and burrow in the substrate. Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75" to "0.80" Care Level: Advanced  

First and foremost be aware this is a DWARF isopod species. This means it is SMALL. Average adult size is about 1/4 inch or 6 to 8 mm. If you already know this obvious fact or it's not a deal breaker then read on. Cubaris Sp. White Shark is a beginner friendly Cubaris species that has exceptionally exquisite colors that might make you think twice about passing this gem up due to it's smaller size. They have sequential sections of orange, black and white and are absolutely fascinating little creatures. As with all other isopods, the color intensity and sections varies to some degree per isopod. On some the black may be more of a navy blue and the orange might be reddish-orange. These are living creatures and not manufactured merchandise so please understand this fact of genetics and small variations. White Sharks are among the few in the Cubaris genus that are actually not exceedingly sensitive or difficult to keep. While most if not all Cubaris isopods do have some extra needs, the White Shark is a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out quickly if parameters go astray for a short period of time. Their husbandry is very straight forward and on par with other Cubaris like Panda King or any Murina type. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is beyond sufficient for a small starter culture. You don't want to start off with much bigger than this unless you are getting or already have a large number of White Sharks on hand. Being dwarf isopods, if they are too spread out it will take much longer for them to find each other and start reproducing. Conversely you don't want too small either as environmental changes in a very small space happen much faster which isn't a good thing for this and most other isopod types. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. White Sharks do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. They do like to burrow so make sure your substrate is at least 3-4 inches deep. This also helps if things start to get dry on the top layer. They will simply dig down where there is more moisture until conditions on the surface are more to their liking. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. White Sharks enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. Some cuttle bone pieces are always a welcome treat as well. While this desirable Cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods. Though they are very small, in high numbers they are generally more visible which means you can enjoy and appreciate their beautiful coloration. A small piece of carrot placed in their enclosure will end up "caked" with adults and babies feasting and is a great way to observe them without stressing them by digging around to find them. They can be seen to some extent during the day, but they are primarily nocturnal. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. A dozen or so within a matter of 2-3 months can quickly multiply long as their care is proper and consistent. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > White Shark Average Size: 1/3" to 1/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Intermediate

Cylisticus Convexus originates from Europe but now can be found on nearly every major continent with human habitation. They're a very adaptable species able to thrive in a multitude of climates ranging from semi arid to semi tropical. They're  sometimes referred to as the "Curly Isopod" or "Teardrop Isopod" due to the fact when they roll into the classic defensive ball, it's only does so partially creating more of an oval shape than a sphere like many other isopod species. This particular type dubbed the "Ukraine Pied", originates from individuals collected in Ukraine showing the black and white dalmatian pattern. These original specimens were then further refined with selective breeding as to have a visually appealing amount of contrast. This isopod is on par with the well known powder blue or powder orange in terms of overall general care. They are a very easy species to keep and can become quite prolific once well established. They tend to burrow into the substrate to some degree so some additional depth is of benefit. They are nocturnal and will quickly scurry to hide or burrow if exposed to bright lighting. But they are truly enjoyable to observe at night as they will come out in force with no reservations moving all about their enclosure foraging and searching for food.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the low to mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Around one half to one third of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side. This species will do fine in almost any type of environmental set up so long as it isn't completely over saturated or too arid with little to no moisture. We find an average moisture gradient works well with this species. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. Ukraine Pied isopods are fond of protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. They do have an impressive feeding response when offered such items. Almost like a swarm of piranhas, they will cluster all over the food source and devour it quickly. But this is mostly only at night or in low light settings. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pestsCylisticus Convexus Ukraine Pied is a great choice for clean up crew in a wide variety of environmental enclosure types. They are very good and quickly breaking down any type of decaying plant or organic materials. They're also a great first isopod if you're new to the hobby. Just know they aren't the best display type unless you are a night person as well. They won't be seen much during the daylight hours. So long as you ensure they don't dry out and offer them a reasonable amount of supplemental food items, they will multiply and flourish without any needed extended efforts on your behalf. Quick Facts Origin: Ukraine Taxonomy: Cylisticidae > Cylisticus > Cylisticus Convexus Average Size: 0.50" inch to 0.60" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Difficulty: Easy

Shiro Utsuri is a unique and fascinating isopod ideal for all experience levels. Deriving it's name from A specific type of Japanese koi fish, these little guys are active, friendly and curious. Belonging to the Nesodillo genus, they originate from Asia and various parts of the pacific region. They average just under half an inch and have an attractive dalmatian pattern of various black splotching over a white to off white semi translucent base. The legs and antennae of each individual can sometimes have black splotching as well. They are an excellent beginner isopod and are very hardy if their basic requirements are maintained. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Shiro Utsuri isopods like moisture, so a steep gradient is not needed. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is best. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A round about average 75%+ humidity level without large deviations will allow them to thrive. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Shiro isopods enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also show a strong feeding response to protein, so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Lastly, ensure these isopods have a calcium source. Cuttlebone or crushed egg shells will be devoured in little time and promotes their general good health. If you're looking for something a little different than the run of the mill armadillidium or porcellio isopod types, the Shiro Utsuri is an easy choice. They are great terrarium or vivarium clean up crew and once established can be rather prolific and reproduce quickly. Their outgoing social nature combined with their variable intriguing color patterns set them apart from most comparable species and will provide endless entertainment for all ages who appreciate these one of a kind crustaceans. Quick Facts Origin: Various Asia and Pacific Regions Classification: Armadillidiidae > Nesodillo > Arcangelii Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some daytime activity is normal with large cultures. Difficulty: Easy

Nesodillo Archangelii "Yeti" is an albino variant of the popular "Shiro Utsuri" isopod. They are all white including the eyes! Belonging to the Nesodillo genus, they originate from Asia and various parts of the pacific region. They average just under half an inch and are semi translucent. The darker area in their center is the digestive tract. As such if they consume foods with bright colors (like carrots), the orange color will be somewhat visible as it works it's way through their body. They are an excellent beginner isopod and are very hardy if their basic requirements are maintained. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Yeti isopods like moisture, so a steep gradient is not needed. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is best. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A round about average 75%+ humidity level without large deviations will allow them to thrive. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Shiro isopods enjoy food options like butternut squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also show a strong feeding response to protein, so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Lastly, ensure these isopods have a calcium source. Cuttlebone or crushed egg shells will be devoured in little time and promotes their general good health. If you're looking for something a little different than the run of the mill armadillidium or porcellio isopod types, the Yeti is an excellent choice. They're a great terrarium or vivarium clean up crew and once established can be rather prolific and reproduce quickly. Their outgoing social nature combined with their strikingly bright white coloration sets them apart from most comparable species and will provide endless entertainment for all ages who appreciate these one of a kind crustaceans. Quick Facts Origin: Various Asia and Pacific Regions Classification: Armadillidiidae > Nesodillo > Arcangelii Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some daytime activity is normal with large cultures. Difficulty: Easy

Oniscus Asellus "BC Maple" is a visually stunning morph of the wild type which displays various dazzling hues of orange. Some with a lighter orange to translucent white around the skirt. This morph was isolated and refined through selective breeding of individuals exhibiting enhanced orange pigmentation. It is a species worth adding to your collection and at this time is still highly sought after. Oniscus Asellus is a species that does have some unique care needs and tends to be less forgiving if their requirements are not correct and consistent. A starter group of 10-15 individuals can be kept in a small enclosure like a 6qt storage bin or small glass tank. Natural botanicals are a great way to decorate your enclosure in a way that mimics the isopods natural habitat. They are also fond of concave cork bark which they can often be found huddled up in small groups. These isopods (wild types) naturally occur in northern parts of the USA and up into Canada. As such, they thrive in cooler temperatures which sets them apart from the vast majority of other terrestrial isopods. 65-72F is ideal though they can tolerate slightly warmer ranges. Wide swings in temperature are generally not tolerated well and could result in a crash, so ensure your bin is in a location where fluctuations will be minimal. They also are noted to do better with a minimal moisture gradient leaning more towards the moist side. It is recommended to keep some area drier, but this needs not be more than 25% of the available space. Isopods have evolved to be detrivores with their primary diet being decayed organic matter. In the wild this is largely things like soft rotting wood and dried leaf litter along with any other deceased plant or animal they might stumble upon. Supplemental vegetables items like carrots, squash, potatoes and similar are readily accepted. Commercial powdered isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood are also highly recommended. A serving or two of protein each week is appreciated and devoured. Fish pellets, freeze dried shrimp or minnows are just a few types these isopods will eat without hesitation. Oniscus Asellus is most active at night. You may see a few out and about during the day, but the majority tend to be reclusive until they lights are out. They make an ideal clean up crew if used in a bioactive as they do like to burrow and eat the substrate to some degree. This isopod is not a prolific breeder so understand that building a sizeable culture will take time and patience. Though this gorgeous isopod does have some potentially challenging care needs, it is worth keeping if it's required parameters can be maintained without large deviations. See our full care guide for Oniscus Asellus "BC Maple" which expands deeper into all aspects of keeping and breeding this designer isopod species. Quick Facts Origin: Native to Europe and introduced to North America Classification: Oniscidae > Oniscus > Asellus Average Size: 0.50 to 0.75" inch Morph Type: BC Maple Morph Characteristics: Various hues of orange from bright to deep 

Oniscus Asellus "White" is a unique and much less common morph of this species. It is nearly devoid of all pigments and is semi transparent with attractive yellow flecking. Specimens vary between off white and off white with a tinge of yellow. This morph was isolated and refined through selective breeding. As of now it is still rare in the hobby and highly sought after. Oniscus Asellus is a species that does have some unique care needs and tends to be less forgiving if their requirements are not correct and consistent. A starter group of 10-15 individuals can be kept in a small enclosure like a 6qt storage bin or small glass tank. Natural botanicals are a great way to decorate your enclosure in a way that mimics the isopods natural habitat. They are also fond of concave cork bark which they can often be found huddled up in small groups. These isopods (wild types) naturally occur in northern parts of the USA and up into Canada. As such, they thrive in cooler temperatures which sets them apart from the vast majority of other terrestrial isopods. 65-72F is ideal though they can tolerate slightly warmer ranges. Wide swings in temperature are generally not tolerated well and could result in a crash, so ensure your bin is in a location where fluctuations will be minimal. They also are noted to do better with a minimal moisture gradient leaning more towards the moist side. It is recommended to keep some area drier, but this needs not be more than 25% of the available space. Isopods have evolved to be detrivores with their primary diet being decayed organic matter. In the wild this is largely things like soft rotting wood and dried leaf litter along with any other deceased plant or animal they might stumble upon. Supplemental vegetables items like carrots, squash, potatoes and similar are readily accepted. Commercial powdered isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood are also highly recommended. A serving or two of protein each week is appreciated and devoured. Fish pellets, freeze dried shrimp or minnows are just a few types these isopods will eat without hesitation. Oniscus Asellus is most active at night. You may see a few out and about during the day, but the majority tend to be reclusive until they lights are out. They make an ideal clean up crew if used in a bioactive as they do like to burrow and eat the substrate to some degree. This isopod is not a prolific breeder so understand that building a sizeable culture will take time and patience. Though this gorgeous isopod does have some potentially challenging care needs, it is worth keeping if it's required parameters can be maintained without large deviations. Quick Facts Origin: Native to Europe and introduced to North America Classification: Oniscidae > Oniscus > Asellus Average Size: 0.50 to 0.75" inch Care Level: Intermediate

Porcellio Bolivari is likely one of the most beautiful and elegant looking isopods in the hobby today. Their base color is a pleasant lemon yellow with the segments of the perion being separated with mottled dark striping. The edges of the skirt including the legs and antenna are white to off white. The intensity of these coloration factors can vary between individuals. The most brilliant colors typically show in sub adult to adult specimens. Porcellio Bolivari is considered intermediate to advanced in terms of care as they have specific environmental needs that must be consistently adhered to for their survival. They are also sensitive to stress and do not do well with big changes or being disturbed an excessive amount. This is a larger Spanish porcellio with big males reaching on average 1.2 inches with females only slightly smaller. With that said, they need ample space. Males can be territorial and an off balance ratio of males to females can result in the females being "harassed" by eager males which causes stress and other potential issues. A sterilite gasket sealed bin or glass tank measuring at least 18-24 long by 12 or more inches wide is ample for a starter colony with some room to grow. Enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. The ideal temperature range for P. Bolivari is 68-78F. Slightly warmer is desirable if you wish to see a thriving culture that is active and reproduces faster.  Moisture gradient and ventilation is where the potential challenging aspect of this species comes into play. They need a modest amount of moisture, but also an area or two that is dry to bone dry. Ideally if your set up is large enough, a few different areas that vary in this way can be beneficial. Such as having two separate moist corners and some dry area in between. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day to facilitate their biological processes as needed. A second layer of needs that further makes them a little more involved is that they need medium to high ventilation. This is easiest achieved with an enclosure that has some level of height up and away from the substrate. In the areas that are to be moist, the substrate can be a bit deeper which in turn retains humidity longer. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will also help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. They also seem to appreciate some stacked cork bark which gives them another dimension to regulate their moisture needs by climbing higher away from the substrate. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. Being a Porcellio, they do appreciate some protein occasionally which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. It should also be noted it's highly recommended to have some form of calcium available at all times. As these unique isopods naturally occur in the limestone caves of eastern Spain, they spend all of their lives in such environments and the closer your set up can mimic their natural surroundings, the better your chance of success. All in all Porcellio Bolivari is an absolutely amazing isopod and is among the few that can rightfully be refereed to as attractive in isopod terms. Once established with a proper and consistent care routine, they will breed readily and flourish. P. Bolivari is also unique in the fact that the females actually parent their broods. Young will cling to the underside or top of the female and only leave to scavenge and feed under her watchful eye. She will then collect them back up to move to a new location for fresh foraging. Taking young away from their mothers too soon will often result in their demise. Maturity is approximately 9 months from birth and the males are sexually dimorphic having larger overall body size with long uropods on their hind quarters. Quick Facts Origin: Eastern Spain Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Bolivari Characteristics: Bright coloring. Fast moving and delicate. Males are territorial. Protects and parents it's young. Average Size: 1 to 1.2 inches at adult size Activity level: Mostly active at night. Some day activity in large numbers. Difficulty: Advanced