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Cubaris Sp Blue Pigeon is a less common Cubaris species in the hobby and perhaps even underrated compared to it's fancy cousins like the rubber ducky and so on. They come in various shades of gray to deep blue. Mancae and juveniles tend to be beige in color taking on their full color closer to adulthood. They are fairly hardy for a cubaris and quite prolific breeders once established. They make excellent bioactive janitors breaking down waste quickly and efficiently. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Blue Pigeon isopods do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will yield a fast growing culture within a time frame of 3-4 months. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Blue Pigeons enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  If you have a semi tropical, to tropical enclosure and are in need of a bioactive clean up crew suited for these conditions, the Blue Pigeon is a highly ideal candidate for your needs. Simply give them consistent temperatures and the humidity they need and they will produce and work so long as these parameters are kept in check. Their multiple shades or blue and gray are a nice touch and they are not extremely sensitive like many other cubaris types.   Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Blue Pigeon  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity in larger cultures is normal. Care Level: Intermediate

The Cappuccino isopod has a timeless appeal with it's smooth creamy off white and accents surrounding various shades of light and dark brown. They instantly conjure up thoughts of warm coffee drinks making it easy to see how they got their trade name. They typically rank quite high on anyone's want list who is enchanted by the world of isopods being on par with similar species like it's cousin the Rubber Ducky. If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have some experience and a firm foundation with isopod husbandry. Most Cubaris species with a few exceptions are considered an advanced far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Like many other Cubaris, Cappuccinos are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Cappuccino isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking at least a few months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Cappuccino isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Cappuccinos do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris, Cappuccinos are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well. Cappuccinos do require a higher level of care and upkeep than your standard run of the mill types. But if you can meet these needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your Cappuccinos will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Advanced

The Orange Freezy Isopod is possibly one of the most strikingly bright and vibrant isopods in the hobby today. It rich vibrant orange hues make it stand out in any enclosure. Though considered an advanced species, most anyone with modest or more isopod experience can keep this exceptional specimen without too much extra fuss far as care goes. If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have a firm foundation with isopod husbandry. Most Cubaris species with a few exceptions are highly sensitive and need strict consistent environmental parameters to keep them alive and healthy. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. Keep in mind "pretty" often comes with extra commitment! First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Like many other Cubaris, Orange Freezys tend to be shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Orange Freezy isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking at least a few months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanicals to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Orange Freezy isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Orange Freezy does not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Sharing the common theme of most other Cubaris isopods are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our breeding colony as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is a favorite as well. Orange Freezy does require a higher level of care and upkeep than your standard run of the mill types. But if you can meet these needs and most importantly keep them consistent, these outstanding isopods will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Advanced

The coveted Rubber Ducky is quite likely a huge part of why the isopod hobby has quickly grown from odd and reclusive to main stream. Who couldn't fall in love with their brilliant contrasting colors and adorable duck face like features? Outside of folks who just need a simple effective clean up crew for an enclosure, the Rubber Ducky isopod is an essential component and must have for any hobbyist or collector.  But that cuteness does have some strings attached if you want to have a thriving culture and enjoy these top tier crustaceans. Firstly, this NOT an ideal isopod for beginners with zero experience or understanding of general isopod keeping and husbandry. Most Cubaris with a few exceptions are considered an advanced species far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. There is a wealth of information out there about how to care for these isopods and get the best results. As with almost any topic, if you read enough you will find some details from one source do not always 100% line up with another. There are many fine points that are legit debatable and many of these come from respectable experienced keepers. Our mantra is not to say who is potentially right or wrong or squabble about micro details. But only to provide you the best practices which is largely the relevant straight forward needs of this designer isopod so you can share your success with others. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Ducky Isopods are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. Rubber Ducky Isopods are slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking up to 3-4 months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Ducky Isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. Rubber Duckies do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Rubber Duckys are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our Duckys as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well.In conclusion when compared to many other isopods, Rubber Duckies are certainly a bit more "needy". But if you can meet their care needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your Rubber Duckies will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Rubber Ducky Characteristics: Classic cute ducky face and colors! Needs specific environmental parameters to thrive. They tend to stay clustered under cork bark and burrow in the substrate. Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75" to "0.80" Care Level: Advanced  

Oniscus Asellus "BC Maple" is a visually stunning morph of the wild type which displays various dazzling hues of orange. Some with a lighter orange to translucent white around the skirt. This morph was isolated and refined through selective breeding of individuals exhibiting enhanced orange pigmentation. It is a species worth adding to your collection and at this time is still highly sought after. Oniscus Asellus is a species that does have some unique care needs and tends to be less forgiving if their requirements are not correct and consistent. A starter group of 10-15 individuals can be kept in a small enclosure like a 6qt storage bin or small glass tank. Natural botanicals are a great way to decorate your enclosure in a way that mimics the isopods natural habitat. They are also fond of concave cork bark which they can often be found huddled up in small groups. These isopods (wild types) naturally occur in northern parts of the USA and up into Canada. As such, they thrive in cooler temperatures which sets them apart from the vast majority of other terrestrial isopods. 65-72F is ideal though they can tolerate slightly warmer ranges. Wide swings in temperature are generally not tolerated well and could result in a crash, so ensure your bin is in a location where fluctuations will be minimal. They also are noted to do better with a minimal moisture gradient leaning more towards the moist side. It is recommended to keep some area drier, but this needs not be more than 25% of the available space. Isopods have evolved to be detrivores with their primary diet being decayed organic matter. In the wild this is largely things like soft rotting wood and dried leaf litter along with any other deceased plant or animal they might stumble upon. Supplemental vegetables items like carrots, squash, potatoes and similar are readily accepted. Commercial powdered isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood are also highly recommended. A serving or two of protein each week is appreciated and devoured. Fish pellets, freeze dried shrimp or minnows are just a few types these isopods will eat without hesitation. Oniscus Asellus is most active at night. You may see a few out and about during the day, but the majority tend to be reclusive until they lights are out. They make an ideal clean up crew if used in a bioactive as they do like to burrow and eat the substrate to some degree. This isopod is not a prolific breeder so understand that building a sizeable culture will take time and patience. Though this gorgeous isopod does have some potentially challenging care needs, it is worth keeping if it's required parameters can be maintained without large deviations. See our full care guide for Oniscus Asellus "BC Maple" which expands deeper into all aspects of keeping and breeding this designer isopod species. Quick Facts Origin: Native to Europe and introduced to North America Classification: Oniscidae > Oniscus > Asellus Average Size: 0.50 to 0.75" inch Morph Type: BC Maple Morph Characteristics: Various hues of orange from bright to deep 

Oniscus Asellus "White" is a unique and much less common morph of this species. It is nearly devoid of all pigments and is semi transparent with attractive yellow flecking. Specimens vary between off white and off white with a tinge of yellow. This morph was isolated and refined through selective breeding. As of now it is still rare in the hobby and highly sought after. Oniscus Asellus is a species that does have some unique care needs and tends to be less forgiving if their requirements are not correct and consistent. A starter group of 10-15 individuals can be kept in a small enclosure like a 6qt storage bin or small glass tank. Natural botanicals are a great way to decorate your enclosure in a way that mimics the isopods natural habitat. They are also fond of concave cork bark which they can often be found huddled up in small groups. These isopods (wild types) naturally occur in northern parts of the USA and up into Canada. As such, they thrive in cooler temperatures which sets them apart from the vast majority of other terrestrial isopods. 65-72F is ideal though they can tolerate slightly warmer ranges. Wide swings in temperature are generally not tolerated well and could result in a crash, so ensure your bin is in a location where fluctuations will be minimal. They also are noted to do better with a minimal moisture gradient leaning more towards the moist side. It is recommended to keep some area drier, but this needs not be more than 25% of the available space. Isopods have evolved to be detrivores with their primary diet being decayed organic matter. In the wild this is largely things like soft rotting wood and dried leaf litter along with any other deceased plant or animal they might stumble upon. Supplemental vegetables items like carrots, squash, potatoes and similar are readily accepted. Commercial powdered isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood are also highly recommended. A serving or two of protein each week is appreciated and devoured. Fish pellets, freeze dried shrimp or minnows are just a few types these isopods will eat without hesitation. Oniscus Asellus is most active at night. You may see a few out and about during the day, but the majority tend to be reclusive until they lights are out. They make an ideal clean up crew if used in a bioactive as they do like to burrow and eat the substrate to some degree. This isopod is not a prolific breeder so understand that building a sizeable culture will take time and patience. Though this gorgeous isopod does have some potentially challenging care needs, it is worth keeping if it's required parameters can be maintained without large deviations. Quick Facts Origin: Native to Europe and introduced to North America Classification: Oniscidae > Oniscus > Asellus Average Size: 0.50 to 0.75" inch Care Level: Intermediate

Porcellio Flavomarginatus is one of the crown jewels in the Porcellio family. Originating from Greece, they have a bright white serrated skirt surrounding a deep gray to black base. Most individuals will also display two rows of white dots or lines running the full length of the pereon section. This species as of now is fairly less common in the hobby. We have spent at least a full year growing our robust culture to what it is now and they are an absolutely fascinating isopod worth adding to your collection! Interesting abstract fact, the translation of their scientific name is "Yellow Bordered Woodlouse" which obviously conflicts with their actual appearance as there is no yellow.  Porcellio Flavomarginatus does have a few specific care requirements that set it apart from most other isopods. They need a sharp moisture gradient with good section of their environment completely dry. Like any isopod, they still need a moist area to hydrate their gills, but this should not be more than 25% of the enclosure. Next is air flow. It needs to be moderate to high. This can create challenges with keeping the moist area from drying out. A deeper moist side substrate can help with this since deeper soil will retain moisture longer. They also seem to enjoy and benefit from some extra height in the mid range and/or dry section. This is best achieved with carefully stacked medium pieces of cork bark. This unique isopod will eat all of the typical food options like various vegetables, powdered isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood or Bug Burger. But like most Porcellio, they are very fond of protein based foods like freeze dried minnows, shrimp pellets, fish flakes and dried insects.  Unfortunately (in our experience) and perhaps the reason they are less common is that they are unforgiving in these needs and a culture will quickly crash if these aspects are neglected for more than a very short time. But, if you give them what they need consistently, they will flourish and breed readily. If you are interested but still uncertain fear not! We have a thorough Porcellio Flavomarginatus Care Guide that delves into the nitty gritty details you will need to master this rare and rewarding species! Quick Facts Origin: Greece and a handful of Turkish islands bordering Greece Family Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Flavomarginatus Morph Name: N/A, this NOT the Crete Morph Average Size: Up to 0.75 inches Activity level: Daytime active and adventurous Difficulty: Intermediate

Porcellio Succinctus is an ultra rare hard to find XL Porcellio isopod and is among the best of the best in our isopod line up at this point in time. If an isopod can be "pretty", this one fits the bill! Full grown adults are nothing short of spectacular with their unique markings and larger than life girth. Their body size averages around an inch in length, sometimes slightly larger. But their extra long uropods and antennae can add up to another full inch, predominantly in males who are slightly larger than their female counterparts. Be strongly advised, this is an ADVANCED isopod species and is NOT recommended for beginners or newer keepers with only limited experience! They require very specific care and can perish easily if the parameters are not properly maintained. Things like large swings in temperature and/or humidity are not usually taken well with this species. Please reach out to us if you have any specific questions or need any clarification on the finer points of their care outlined below. Porcellio Succinctus hails from Spain. Primarily areas that have high concentrations of limestone, especially limestone cliffs on the Eastern seaboard. Their environmental factors in the enclosure are vital if they are to succeed as a new culture. In the wild they can be found inside of caves or in and around rocky structures and other similar formations. They are a largely dry set up isopod but like all other isopod species they do require some level of moisture to breathe and stay hydrated. Our Succinctus enclosure is 25% moist then tapering off in dryness for the remainder with the very far end being more or less bone dry. This set up type offers a sharp gradient but also some "in between" area so they can move about to the location that best suits their current needs. This factor alone can be challenging which has no one size fits all answer far as how to make your enclosure work this way because all of the variables that will affect any given enclosure will be different based on the type of enclosure, the size, the ambient climate in the location in which they are kept among others. This is an important aspect with isopod keeping in general and is all the more vital with P. Succinctus. The best way to dial your enclosure in is good old fashioned trial and error. Fine tuning the factors you can control like ventilation and and watering amount/frequency will be the key to creating a stable environment for these rather demanding isopods. Providing a thicker substrate one one side will help retain moisture longer and multiple hides throughout the different 'micro climates' in your set up should give them several options where they can best move to what suits them at any given time. Ventilation should be on the higher side to avoid stagnation, but balanced enough to where everything doesn't completely dry up in a very short period of time. For temperature, average room temps of 69-76F with a modest night drop are no problem. As mentioned earlier, avoid large sudden fluctuations with temperature and humidity as these isopods don't fare well in these conditions. Since this is a much larger isopod than the typical fare, we recommend a larger footprint to accommodate them. There is more to this than the practical statement of a bigger isopod needs a bigger enclosure. Mature males of P. Succinctus are highly territorial and if they are forced in a set up that doesn't allow modest spacing they can quickly and easily die of stress. The same applies for the females since it will be harder for them to escape "eager" males looking for attention. Providing as many hides as practical will also help minimize these conflicts. Males are easily identified by their long showing uropods and antennae while the females will be a bit smaller in size but still fantastically impressive. A minimum 10 gallon glass tank or 12qt gasket sealed sterilite bin is fine for a starter colony of 12-15 individuals. This designer isopod will eat all of thetypical food options like various vegetables, powdered isopod dietslike Repashy Morning Wood or Bug Burger. But like most Porcellio, they are very fond of protein based foods like freeze dried minnows, shrimp pellets, fish flakes and dried insects. An isopods primary diet above all is decayed wood and dried leaf litter so be sure these are always available in abundance. Small limestone chunks like Texas holy rock work well but cuttlebone is also fully acceptable to help ensure they get their calcium needs met. Lastly, it should be understood these isopods are VERY SLOW breeders. Females only have 1-2 medium size broods per year in the warmer months of summer. This fact combined with their sensitivity requiring a high level of care are the primary factors to their higher value and cost. But this is slowly changing and we are thrilled after nearly a year of hard work to be able to offer a very limited amount of this truly spectacular isopod for your collection! Quick Facts Origin: Spain Family Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Succinctus Average Size: 2+ inches with uropods and antennae Activity level: Mostly active at night Difficulty: Advanced

Porcellio Werneri, sometimes referred to as the "Greek Shield Isopod" gets it's name from it's wide flattened body. They have a gray base colored adorned with white serrated edges. Mancae and juveniles will have a brown base color which transitions to gray when they reach adulthood. Their flattened body shape is likely an evolved defense mechanism. When frightened they will scurry away quickly and if possible they will wedge themselves into any available narrow crevice making it exceedingly difficult for predators to get at them. They are generally wary and reclusive coming out to forage largely during night time hours. This particular species is considered "advanced" and we highly recommend that only experienced keepers purchase this species. They have particular care and environmental needs that if not strictly adhered to will quickly lead to their demise. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture of these rare gems. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature around the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Porcellio Werneri is a dry climate isopod originating from the mountainous areas of Spain, often found near bodies of water on rocky structures. We recommend no more than 1/3 of the enclosure be damp (not soaking wet) and this must be combined with modest ventilation. This is best achieved by setting them up in a taller enclosure with a deeper substrate that retains moisture longer. You can then arrange various hides or other structures in a stacked or raised configuration. This gives them the option to self regulate as needed by moving closer or further away from the substrate where humidity levels can be high or low. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Porcellio Werni also benefits from a consistently available calcium source, so be sure you always have some cuttle bone or other calcium source available for them. While Porcellio Werneri can be a challenging species, the good news is if you're able to get them properly dialed in and comfortable they will flourish so long as you keep their environmental parameters in check. Please note adults males can be territorial so set them up with ample space and several hide options so they have a modest amount of room for separation. Werneri isopods are seasonal breeders reproducing with small broods only once or twice per year on average. So growing a large colony does take time and is one of the bigger reasons they are higher on the price point scale. Quick Facts Origin: Eastern Greece Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Werneri Characteristics: Large oval shaped body with a slim profile. Brown to gray base with white serrated edging. Average Size: 0.80" inch Activity level: Mostly night and early morning hours Difficulty: Advanced