Products

Armadillidium Klugii "Montenegro" is one of the very few visually stunning isopods widely available and generally very affordable. They are characterized by a bright red skirt that surrounds a dark brown to black base color. They have 3 rows of dots, usually a mix of white and yellow that extend the full length of the pereon section. They are modestly sizeable and somewhat shy and reclusive being most active at night. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture of these beauties. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but their optimal range is at slightly elevated temperatures of 74-79F. This species prefers a sharp moisture gradient with 1/3 up to 1/2 of the enclosure being lightly damp and the rest dry to bone dry. They will not fair well if all of the enclosure is damp or wet. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests.  While this showy terrestrial crustacean is not overly difficult to keep, a culture can crash rather quickly if their specific care needs like moisture gradient, ventilation, and protein based foods are not consistently adhered to. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce. But once established they will be very prolific on a regular basis. They are among the few isopods that can survive and do well in a semi arid environment making them ideal for bioactive set ups of this type. See our full care guide for Armadillidium Klugii "Montenegro" which has comprehensive expanded details for all care aspects of this interesting isopod species! Quick Facts Origin: Balkan coast lines and areas between Croatia through Montenegro Classification: Armadillidiidae > Armadillidium > A. Klugii  Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Somewhat day active with peak activity at night Morph/Locality Type: Montenegro  Known Morphs/Localities : Montenegro Orange, Pudding, Dubrovnik

Armadillidium Klugii "Pudding" is another popular color morph in the Klugii family that originates from the Montenegro locale. It distinguishes itself from it's other counterparts by lacking the red skirt on it's sides. The base color ranges from light to dark brown and the classic 3 rows of spots that run down their segments can be yellow, white or a mix of both. These colorful clown isopods have a somewhat shy disposition but will become more bold as numbers increase. Clown isopods are possibly the most readily accessible and widely affordable isopods available in the hobby that have bright, vivid variable coloring that rivals some of the more exotic and high priced isopods like those in the Merulanella family. Their fun almost clown like polka dot spotting along with their endearing nature makes them a must have for any collection.  Average room temperature will suit them just fine but they are noted to thrive better at slightly elevated temperatures of 74-79F. This species prefers a sharp moisture gradient with 1/3 up to 1/2 of the enclosure being lightly damp and the rest dry to bone dry. They will not fair well if all of the enclosure is damp or wet. They enjoy all of the classic isopod food fares like squash, carrots and other veggies along with any commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. However, they greatly benefit from protein in the form of freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, fish flakes and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests.  While this unique terrestrial crustacean is not overly difficult to keep, a culture can crash rather quickly if their specific care needs like moisture gradient, ventilation, and protein based foods are not consistently adhered to. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce. But once established they will be very prolific on a regular basis. See our full care guide for Armadillidium Klugii "Pudding" which has comprehensive expanded details for all care aspects of this interesting isopod species! Quick Facts Origin: Mediterranean areas including India, and central to north Africa  Scientific Name: Armadillidium Klugii Morph Name: Pudding Characteristics: A mutation of the Montenegro line that lacks the red skirt Size: Around 0.5 inch on average Activity level: Generally reclusive but more bold with high numbers

A. Werneri is actually one of the larger Armadillidiums reaching sizes of up to 0.85" inch in length and they are fairly bulky as well. This gives reason for their common name in the hobby of "Greater Clown Isopod". They tend to be on the shy side and stay hidden during most daylight hours only coming out to forage and explore when it's dark. But larger cultures will exhibit some level of daytime activity. The orange coloring varies slightly from individual to individual with the middle section usually a bit darker than the edges. But overall nice bright coloring with attractive contrasting white spotting from the head to end section.  For housing, a 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture of 12 to 25 individuals. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanicals to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature around the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Avoid temperatures lower than the mid 60sF and no higher than 80F. Like it's Klugii cousins, A. Werneri prefers it's climate slightly drier overall with easy access to a moist area when they need to re-hydrate their gills. Around one quarter to one third of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side, but not completely devoid of some moisture. It's not an issue to let it get drier than most other isopods may need, but do avoid allowing it to become 100% bone dry. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas as needed to maintain their needed ambient humidity levels. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. A longer piece that straddles both the moist and drier area also seems to be beneficial for this species.  Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and rotting decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Marbleized Isopods relish food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also appreciate some protein once or twice a week so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. A. Werneri Orange is not overly difficult to keep so long as you consistently provide the proper environment they need to thrive. They do tend to be on the slower side to reproduce, so understand it takes patience and time to see a few turn into many. At least 4-6 months of good care before you will notice tiny mancae in the substrate. They are also on the slower side to mature to breeding age taking 6+ months before they can contribute to increasing numbers. These facts are likely one of the biggest reasons this isopod is not quite common and readily available being somewhat hard to find. But they are an amazing and rewarding addition worth having in any collection! Quick Facts Origin: Greece and select Turkish islands Family Classification: Armadillidiidae > Armadillidium > A. Werneri Average Size: Between 0.80" to 0.85" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity is common with larger established cultures Difficulty: Intermediate

First and foremost be aware this is a DWARF isopod species. This means it's SMALL. Average adult size is about 1/4 inch or 6 to 8 mm. If you already know this obvious fact or it's not a deal breaker then read on. Spiky Pineapple Isopods are an intermediate skill level species most anyone with at least some successful isopod experience can easy keep and enjoy. As their name implies, their exterior is adorned with little spiky nubs that are in no way actually sharp or anything to be concerned about. They vary in color, mostly a washed out orange to light yellow. They are nocturnal and tend to form tight clusters underneath of cork bard or decayed wood and come out at night to feed and forage. Their spectacular appearance more than makes up for their smaller size and are a rewarding species to keep. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is beyond sufficient for a small starter culture. You don't want to start off with much bigger than this unless you are getting or already have a large number of these isopods on hand. Being dwarf isopods, if they are too spread out it will take much longer for them to find each other and start reproducing. Conversely you don't want too small either as environmental changes in a very small space happen much faster which isn't a good thing for this and most other isopod types. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding.  Average room temperature will suit them just fine. A good temperature range is 72-78F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Spiky Pineapples do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry so allow for some ventilation. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Keeping your substrate at least 3-4 inches deep also helps retain humidity and gives them some room to burrow if things get too dry. They will simply dig down where there is more moisture until conditions on the surface are more to their liking.  Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Spiky Pineapples enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Supplemental calcium is recommended as well. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. Some cuttle bone pieces are always a welcome treat as well. Spiky Pineapples have shot up in popularity as of recent and we are happy to offer some of our quality in house specimens for your terrarium! They are not extremely difficult like some Cubaris, but they do require a little bit more upkeep and monitoring to ensure their environment stays optimal. Their pleasant contrasting colors look great in the terrarium and even though they typically not too visible at day, they do come out in force once the day light hours have ended. Quick Facts Origin: Spain. Mostly in the Iberian Peninsula region Classification: Cristarmadillidium > Cristarmadillidium Muricatum Average Size:1/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Murina Anemone is a great isopod for many applications from bio-active custodian, classroom educational setting or of course just as a unique pet.They have attractive coloring consisting of random dark splotching on a light pink base. This is believed to be a calico morph. The color expression can and does vary between individuals, but all have it to some degree. Cubaris Murina is among the easiest of the Cubaris Genus to keep not being quite as sensitive and demanding as it's many other cousins. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. C. Murina do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it'a recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  In addition to the anemone morph seen here, there are many other color morphs available ranging from grey, pink, white, orange and a few others as well! Starter and smaller cultures are somewhat reclusive, but they are noticeable more bold in higher numbers. Our large cultures are active both day and night and can always be seen moving about in their enclosure. With only a few non demanding needs outside of "typical isopod care", Cubaris Murina is no doubt an excellent isopod to add to your collection! Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia Classification: Armadillidiadae > Cubaris > Cubaris Murina  Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Active both day and night Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Murina Glacier is a great isopod for many applications from bio-active custodian, classroom educational setting or of course just as a unique pet. They are a true albino lacking any pigmentation. Even their eyes are white! The dark area running down their center line is the digestive tract. Since they are semi translucent, the color(s) of foods fed may be visible from the inside. For example, feeding them carrots will show a very unmistakable white-ish orange color until they have fully digested. Cubaris Murina is among the easiest of the Cubaris Genus to keep not being quite as sensitive and demanding as it's many other cousins. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. C. Murina do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it'a recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. In addition to the glacier morph seen here, there are many other color morphs available ranging from grey, pink, orange and a few others as well! Starter and smaller cultures are somewhat reclusive, but they are noticeable more bold in higher numbers. Our large cultures are active both day and night and can always be seen moving about in their enclosure. With only a few non demanding needs outside of "typical isopod care", Cubaris Murina is no doubt an excellent isopod to add to your collection! Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia Classification: Armadillidiadae > Cubaris > Cubaris Murina  Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Active both day and night Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Sp Blue Pigeon is a less common Cubaris species in the hobby and perhaps even underrated compared to it's fancy cousins like the rubber ducky and so on. They come in various shades of gray to deep blue. Mancae and juveniles tend to be beige in color taking on their full color closer to adulthood. They are fairly hardy for a cubaris and quite prolific breeders once established. They make excellent bioactive janitors breaking down waste quickly and efficiently. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Blue Pigeon isopods do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods but are also more forgiving if conditions go just a little bit astray for a short time period. A small moisture gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will yield a fast growing culture within a time frame of 3-4 months. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Blue Pigeons enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  If you have a semi tropical, to tropical enclosure and are in need of a bioactive clean up crew suited for these conditions, the Blue Pigeon is a highly ideal candidate for your needs. Simply give them consistent temperatures and the humidity they need and they will produce and work so long as these parameters are kept in check. Their multiple shades or blue and gray are a nice touch and they are not extremely sensitive like many other cubaris types.   Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Blue Pigeon  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity in larger cultures is normal. Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Sp. Citrus Panda King is a unique morph derived from the Red Panda King. They are a bright orange to deep red coloring, sometimes with a touch of white on their rumps or sides. Panda Kings can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Citrus Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day. 

Cubaris Sp. Panda King is a classic isopod ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. They have grey and white banding, that conjures the likeness of a panda bear hence their common trade name. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like radishes, carrots, zucchini and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  While this endearing cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis.  Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Panda King Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day.   Care Level: Intermediate

Cubaris Sp. RED Panda King is a unique isopod that can be ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods. Red Panda King is a color morph of the common Panda King. Instead of the grey and white banding, the grey sections are replaced with a bright orange to deep red coloring in that section. They still retail the off white section in the center section of the perion. While most if not all Cubaris genus isopods have extra needs and are more sensitive, the Panda King isopod is considered a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out if parameters go astray for a short period of time.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Panda Kings do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  While this classic cubaris isopod with a red twist is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They are burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. See our full care guide for Cubaris Sp."Red Panda King" which has comprehensive expanded details for this beginner friendly Cubaris isopod species. Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp.  Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day. 

Cubaris Sp. Red Tiger is a relatively rare specimen in the hobby at this time. This interesting species is adorned with reddish orange stripes of variable patterns. It's believed this pattern is an evolved camouflage that blends in well with dark damp tree bark and forest floor debris in their natural habitat ranging across south east Asia, most notably Thailand. Red Tigers are best described as a medium level isopod in terms of care requirements and propagation. As with most cubaris, they are a little bit more on the needy side and we strongly recommend against purchasing this species unless you have a firm foundation and understanding of isopod husbandry gained from cultivating less challenging species that are fit in the beginner friendly category. A few key disclosures that are important to know if you are pressing forward. First, Red Tiger is a bit on the smaller side with adults reaching around 0.75 to 0.80 inch max. But perhaps the most vital key point you should be aware of is that this species is extremely shy and flighty. They often run away quite fast (for an isopod) when they are exposed such as when flipping over a piece of bark. As such, you should do all that is possible to avoid disturbing them as this can lead to high stress levels which leads to worse things like die off. We virtually never rummage around our breeding enclosure unless it's absolutely needed for basic husbandry. They are nocturnal and will cautiously make there way about under the cover of darkness to forage. This is the best time observe them without causing undue stress. As with any species, as population increases in a given space you will likely see them out and about more so than if you only have a small starter culture of 6 to 12. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Red Tigers is 74-82F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Red Tigers do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Isopods are detrivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Panda Kings enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood.. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy small chunks of Texas holy rock.  While this designer cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types.   Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia and Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Red Tiger  Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Care Level: Intermediate

First and foremost be aware this is a DWARF isopod species. This means it is SMALL. Average adult size is about 1/4 inch or 6 to 8 mm. If you already know this obvious fact or it's not a deal breaker then read on. Cubaris Sp. White Shark is a beginner friendly Cubaris species that has exceptionally exquisite colors that might make you think twice about passing this gem up due to it's smaller size. They have sequential sections of orange, black and white and are absolutely fascinating little creatures. As with all other isopods, the color intensity and sections varies to some degree per isopod. On some the black may be more of a navy blue and the orange might be reddish-orange. These are living creatures and not manufactured merchandise so please understand this fact of genetics and small variations. White Sharks are among the few in the Cubaris genus that are actually not exceedingly sensitive or difficult to keep. While most if not all Cubaris isopods do have some extra needs, the White Shark is a bit more tolerant and not as likely to die out quickly if parameters go astray for a short period of time. Their husbandry is very straight forward and on par with other Cubaris like Panda King or any Murina type. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is beyond sufficient for a small starter culture. You don't want to start off with much bigger than this unless you are getting or already have a large number of White Sharks on hand. Being dwarf isopods, if they are too spread out it will take much longer for them to find each other and start reproducing. Conversely you don't want too small either as environmental changes in a very small space happen much faster which isn't a good thing for this and most other isopod types. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. White Sharks do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. They do like to burrow so make sure your substrate is at least 3-4 inches deep. This also helps if things start to get dry on the top layer. They will simply dig down where there is more moisture until conditions on the surface are more to their liking. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. White Sharks enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock. Some cuttle bone pieces are always a welcome treat as well. While this desirable Cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods. Though they are very small, in high numbers they are generally more visible which means you can enjoy and appreciate their beautiful coloration. A small piece of carrot placed in their enclosure will end up "caked" with adults and babies feasting and is a great way to observe them without stressing them by digging around to find them. They can be seen to some extent during the day, but they are primarily nocturnal. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis. A dozen or so within a matter of 2-3 months can quickly multiply long as their care is proper and consistent. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > White Shark Average Size: 1/3" to 1/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night Care Level: Intermediate

Porcellio Flavomarginatus is one of the crown jewels in the Porcellio family. Originating from Greece, they have a bright white serrated skirt surrounding a deep gray to black base. Most individuals will also display two rows of white dots or lines running the full length of the pereon section. This species as of now is fairly less common in the hobby. We have spent at least a full year growing our robust culture to what it is now and they are an absolutely fascinating isopod worth adding to your collection! Interesting abstract fact, the translation of their scientific name is "Yellow Bordered Woodlouse" which obviously conflicts with their actual appearance as there is no yellow.  Porcellio Flavomarginatus does have a few specific care requirements that set it apart from most other isopods. They need a sharp moisture gradient with good section of their environment completely dry. Like any isopod, they still need a moist area to hydrate their gills, but this should not be more than 25% of the enclosure. Next is air flow. It needs to be moderate to high. This can create challenges with keeping the moist area from drying out. A deeper moist side substrate can help with this since deeper soil will retain moisture longer. They also seem to enjoy and benefit from some extra height in the mid range and/or dry section. This is best achieved with carefully stacked medium pieces of cork bark. This unique isopod will eat all of the typical food options like various vegetables, powdered isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood or Bug Burger. But like most Porcellio, they are very fond of protein based foods like freeze dried minnows, shrimp pellets, fish flakes and dried insects.  Unfortunately (in our experience) and perhaps the reason they are less common is that they are unforgiving in these needs and a culture will quickly crash if these aspects are neglected for more than a very short time. But, if you give them what they need consistently, they will flourish and breed readily. If you are interested but still uncertain fear not! We have a thorough Porcellio Flavomarginatus Care Guide that delves into the nitty gritty details you will need to master this rare and rewarding species! Quick Facts Origin: Greece and a handful of Turkish islands bordering Greece Family Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Flavomarginatus Morph Name: N/A, this NOT the Crete Morph Average Size: Up to 0.75 inches Activity level: Daytime active and adventurous Difficulty: Intermediate

Porcellio Haasi is a titan class isopod capable of reaching lengths a little over an inch long. They are a great intro species if you're new to the larger Spanish Porcellio types. This variant known as "Bright" is not a color morph, but a locale largely isolated to the mountainous areas of Northwest Spain. They are characterized by their silvery metallic mottled patterns, sometimes with a hint of yellow. A truly attractive and unique isopod species! Full grown males on average reach 1 to 1.10 inches with females only slightly smaller. With that said, they need generous space. Not only for the obvious fact they are larger, but that males can be territorial and an off balance ratio of males to females can result in fighting along with the females being "harassed" which causes stress and other potential issues. A sterilite gasket sealed bin or glass tank measuring at least 18-24 long by 12 or more inches wide is ideal for a starter colony with some room to grow. Enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. The preferred temperature range for P. Haasi is 68-76F. Moisture gradient and ventilation is where the potential challenging aspect of this species comes into play. They do best in a drier set up than most typical isopods but still need a moist area or two to avoid desiccating. If your set up is large enough, a few different areas that vary in this way can be beneficial. Such as having two separate moist corners and some dry area in between. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day to facilitate their biological processes as needed. A second layer of needs that makes them a little more involved is that they need medium to high ventilation. This is easiest achieved with an enclosure that has some level of height up and away from the substrate. In the areas that are to be moist, the substrate can be a bit deeper which in turn retains humidity longer. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will also help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. They also seem to appreciate some stacked cork bark which gives them another dimension to regulate their moisture needs by climbing higher away from the substrate. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. Being a Porcellio, they do appreciate some protein occasionally which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. It should also be noted it's highly recommended to have some form of calcium available at all times. As these unique isopods naturally occur in the limestone caves and cliff side environments, the closer your set up can mimic their natural surroundings, the better your chance of success. P. Haasi Bright is a spin off of their more common "High Yellow" cousin, but are essentially the same animal. Though they are mostly hidden by day, if you look in on them after the lights have been out for a short time, you will see them fully out and about foraging for food and exploring their surroundings. Their monochrome appearance offers something a little different for the avid hobbyist wishing to have a diversification of color and appearance in their collection. Quick Facts Origin: North West Spain Classification: Porcellionidae> Porcellio > Haasi Size: Up to 1.25 inches Activity level: Generally reclusive. Most active at night. Difficulty: Intermediate

Porcellio Haasi "High Yellow" are among the few terrestrial isopods that reach an impressive sizes as adults with large males reaching 1 to 1.25 inches in length. Males are easily distinguishable having much longer uropods than the females. This species is typically on the shy side and you won't see them out in the open moving about like other isopod species. But once their numbers are up they will be a bit more bold to show themselves periodically. They spend much of their times on the undersides of cork bark, rotting wood and thick leaf litter. Be aware that males are very territorial and your enclosure should have ample space along with multiple hides to minimize conflicts and stress. The bright yellow coloration of these individuals is a line bred trait selectively isolated and is a breath taking sight to see in real life. Originating from the mountainous areas of Spain, these titan sized isopods prefer a drier habitat but still need a damp area to rehydrate from time to time. Quick Facts Origin: Spain Scientific Name: Porcellio Haasi Family: Porcellionidae Morph Name: High Yellow Size: Up to 1.25 inches Activity level: Generally reclusive Difficulty: Intermediate