isopod

The Snow Bee Isopod is a visually appealing genetic variant of the Emperor Bee Isopod. The difference is the Snow Bee is hypomelanisitc which means it has a noticeably reduced amount of dark pigmentation. This is distinctly different from albinism, which results in a complete or near complete absence of melanin. This has caused some level of confusion in the hobby. Simply stated, They are both the same exact animal, the same species with the same taxonomic classification. One just has reduced pigmentation and the other does not. Snow Bees are easily distinguished by their overall lighter washed out appearance. The lighter bands can vary from off white to a pale creamy yellow while the center band can vary from a medium brown to a deep purple. Emperor Bees on the other hand have bright bold colors consisting of golden yellow up front, jet black in the middle and often  a touch of white on the rump area. It is not unusual to sometimes have a few Emperor bees show in broods derived from Snow Bee isopods. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 6-10 individuals. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. These isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. 72F to 80F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction as they typically do not fare well with large sudden changes. They also don't need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they like to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Snow Bees are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. The Snow Bee isopod is a generally slow to moderate breeder and requires a strict care regimen to thrive. Providing the environment they need is not hard, the only challenge is keeping it consistent and not allowing parameters to swing too far in short periods of time. But if you can get them dialed in properly and maintain that, they will do well with patience and time. Their frosty contrasting colors are very unique and make them a highly sought after specimen. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Snow Bee Characteristics: Hypomelanistic variant of the Emporor Bee with a frosty pale appearance Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal and active at night. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75" to "0.85" Care Level: Advanced  

Cubaris Sp. Tapir is technically a Panda King. Just a unique rare color morph that is missing the front black section. They do retain their cute black faces, but that aside they are the same exact isopod with the same care needs as the traditional Panda King and it's many other variants. Tapir isopods are ideal for beginners or keepers with some experience working with more common and less sensitive isopods.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range is 72-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Tapir do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 75% humidity level without large deviations will give you fantastic results. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Tapir enjoy food options like squash, carrots, zucchini and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it is recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy Texas holy rock.  While this endearing cubaris isopod is not extremely difficult to keep, it still does require a bit more care than most common isopods like Armadillidium or Porcellio types. They're burrowers so do not expect to see them out and about during the day very much. They tend to scatter when disturbed and quickly hide. The best time to observe them is at night when they are naturally active and foraging for food. They are typically on the slow side to reproduce, but once established they will be fairly prolific on a regular basis.  Quick Facts Origin: Various parts of Thailand and Vietnam Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Tapir Average Size: 1/2" to 3/4" inch Activity level: Minimal. They're nocturnal and tend to stay burrowed throughout the day.   Care Level: Intermediate

The coveted Rubber Ducky is quite likely a huge part of why the isopod hobby has quickly grown from odd and reclusive to main stream. Who couldn't fall in love with their brilliant contrasting colors and adorable duck face like features? Outside of folks who just need a simple effective clean up crew for an enclosure, the Rubber Ducky isopod is an essential component and must have for any hobbyist or collector. This ultra rare variant features a nice contrasting black and white pattern. They almost look like they are wearing little tuxedos and are quite endearing. But that cuteness does have some strings attached if you want to have a thriving culture and enjoy these top tier crustaceans. Firstly, this NOT an ideal isopod for beginners with zero experience or understanding of general isopod keeping and husbandry. Most Cubaris with a few exceptions are considered an advanced species far as needs go to keep them alive and healthy. While they do not require intense daily care, they do have specific environmental needs that must be consistently maintained without large swings. A sharp change in temperature and/or humidity alone can end all of them in a short period of time. There is a wealth of information out there about how to care for these isopods and get the best results. As with almost any topic, if you read enough you will find some details from one source do not always 100% line up with another. There are many fine points that are legit debatable and many of these come from respectable experienced keepers. Our mantra is not to say who is potentially right or wrong or squabble about micro details. But only to provide you the best practices which is largely the relevant straight forward needs of this rare designer isopod so you can share your success with others. First, a large reality check for anyone who needs it. Ducky Isopods are shy and reclusive. Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much. A random here and there sighting during the day is not uncommon and you will in fact see more with higher numbers in a given space, but this species is primarily nocturnal. They also do not enjoy being disturbed and will quickly scurry to hide if exposed. Constantly flipping over bark, leaves and other hiding spots to look at them will stress them out and can lead to much worse things happening. Our advice is to leave them alone as much as realistically possible outside of necessary husbandry and enclosure maintenance needs. The less they are disturbed, the faster they will settle in and get along with their natural life processes. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium with tight fitting lid is sufficient for a small starter culture of 10-15 individuals. White Ducky Isopods are very slow to reproduce compared to many other species typically taking up to 4-6 months in ideal care conditions before young start appearing. So this size should last you a decent amount of time before a size upgrade is needed. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Ducky Isopods are a sub tropical to tropical species so they do prefer it on the warmer side. High 70s to very low 80s F is their comfort zone. Small deviations in temperature are not detrimental, but do whatever you need based on your enclosure set up to avoid large swings in either direction. White Duckies do not need a defined moisture gradient like most other isopods. Their native environments are warmer temperatures and higher humidity most times of the year. The soil should be mostly moist but not soggy! A very small moisture gradient in our experience has worked well. Just ensure neither side gets anywhere remotely close to dry. Our breeder tank is best described as "moist side and slightly less moist side". A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a reasonably consistent humidity. Do also provide a deeper substrate as they tend to burrow sometimes. Depth should be a minimum 4-6 inches. Deeper substrates will also retain water longer so this goes hand in hand with humidity needs. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. They also need some occasional protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. White Duckys are noted to be fond of limestone, mirroring the caves and rocky areas they naturally occur. This holds true for our Duckys as they quickly devour calcium sources like cuttle bone when offered. Texas Holy Rock (in small chunks) is reported to be a favorite as well.In conclusion when compared to many other isopods, White Duckies are certainly a bit more "needy". But if you can meet their care needs and most importantly keep them consistent, your White Duckies will not only survive but will multiply and flourish in due time. Quick Facts Origin: Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. > Rubber Ducky Characteristics: Classic cute ducky face and colors! Needs specific environmental parameters to thrive. Rare and slow to reproduce. Activity Level: Primarily nocturnal. Very shy and seldom seen during daylight hours. Average Size: 0.75" to "0.85" Care Level: Advanced  

Cubaris Sp. Yellow Tiger is a less common isopod in the hobby at this time. They display a pleasant range of yellows from pastel to bright. Freshly molted individuals are often very bright yellow. They are a bit on the needy side, but not exceedingly difficult to keep if you have a firm foundation with basic isopod care. They typically average a half inch in size with mature males pushing 3/4 of an inch. They're nocturnal and will cautiously make there way about under the cover of darkness to forage and feed. This is the best time observe them without causing undue stress. As with any species, as population increases in a given space you will likely see them out and about more often. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Yellow Tigers is 74-82F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Yellow Tigers do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. They will not fare well if allowed to get any level of dry. A 65%-75% humidity level without large deviations will keep them in their comfort zone. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Isopods are detrivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Yellow Tigers enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood.. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other Cubaris isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy small chunks of Texas holy rock.  This isopod is a very slow reproducer so be patient and provide good consistent care and eventually you will be rewarded with small period broods o newcomers.    Quick Facts Origin: Southeast Asia and Thailand Classification: Armadillidiidae > Cubaris > Cubaris Sp. Average Size: 1/2" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Care Level: Intermediate

Cylisticus Convexus originates from Europe but now can be found on nearly every major continent with human habitation. They're a very adaptable species able to thrive in a multitude of climates ranging from semi arid to semi tropical. They're  sometimes referred to as the "Curly Isopod" or "Teardrop Isopod" due to the fact when they roll into the classic defensive ball, it's only does so partially creating more of an oval shape than a sphere like many other isopod species. This particular type dubbed the "Ukraine Pied", originates from individuals collected in Ukraine showing the black and white dalmatian pattern. These original specimens were then further refined with selective breeding as to have a visually appealing amount of contrast. This isopod is on par with the well known powder blue or powder orange in terms of overall general care. They are a very easy species to keep and can become quite prolific once well established. They tend to burrow into the substrate to some degree so some additional depth is of benefit. They are nocturnal and will quickly scurry to hide or burrow if exposed to bright lighting. But they are truly enjoyable to observe at night as they will come out in force with no reservations moving all about their enclosure foraging and searching for food.  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the low to mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Around one half to one third of the enclosure should have damp (not wet) sphagnum moss with the remainder being a bit on the dry side. This species will do fine in almost any type of environmental set up so long as it isn't completely over saturated or too arid with little to no moisture. We find an average moisture gradient works well with this species. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy. Ukraine Pied isopods are fond of protein in their diets which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. They do have an impressive feeding response when offered such items. Almost like a swarm of piranhas, they will cluster all over the food source and devour it quickly. But this is mostly only at night or in low light settings. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pestsCylisticus Convexus Ukraine Pied is a great choice for clean up crew in a wide variety of environmental enclosure types. They are very good and quickly breaking down any type of decaying plant or organic materials. They're also a great first isopod if you're new to the hobby. Just know they aren't the best display type unless you are a night person as well. They won't be seen much during the daylight hours. So long as you ensure they don't dry out and offer them a reasonable amount of supplemental food items, they will multiply and flourish without any needed extended efforts on your behalf. Quick Facts Origin: Ukraine Taxonomy: Cylisticidae > Cylisticus > Cylisticus Convexus Average Size: 0.50" inch to 0.60" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Difficulty: Easy

Filipinodillo Cordova is a largely rare isopod in the hobby at this time. They feature a unique mottled camo like pattern that vary from individual to individual. This is a variable feature with some being heavily marked and some only nominally. They are not exceedingly difficult to keep if you have a firm foundation with basic isopod care. They typically average around 3/4 of an inch at adult size. They're nocturnal and will cautiously make there way about under the cover of darkness to forage and feed and explore. This is the best time observe them without causing undue stress. As with any species, as population increases in a given space you will likely see them out and about more often. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature will suit them just fine but keep in mind they are native to tropical to sub tropical areas so so do not let it get too cool. A good temperature range for Cordova is 74-80F leaning more towards the warmer end if possible. Cordova isopods do not need a pronounced moisture gradient like most other isopods. A small gradient is fine, but a consistent lightly damp (not wet) enclosure is ideal. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over different parts of the enclosure will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This species tends to enjoy bark flats slightly off or above the substrate so offer several hides with various levels of clearance from the substrate ranging from very close to a few inches so they can self regulate as needed. Isopods are detrivores. Their primary diet in nature is dried leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. Cordova isopods enjoy food options like squash, carrots, cucumbers and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy Morning Wood. They also tend to be protein hungry so offer them things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. As with most any other isopod, it's recommended to have some limestone in their enclosure. This mimics their natural cave environments and they do seem to enjoy it. This can be in the form of crushed pellets they can nibble or small light weight stones they can crawl on and hide under. In our experience either will work, but our pods seem to enjoy small chunks of Texas holy rock.  This isopod is a modest reproducer once established. Filipinodillo Cordova are considered intermediate level so we highly recommend this species for those who have a firm foundation with basic isopod care. A good consistently maintained enclosure avoiding large swings in parameters combined with a quality varied diet is all they need to be happy and thrive.    Quick Facts Origin: Philippine Islands Classification: Armadillidiidae > Filipinodillo Sp. Average Size: 3/4" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal Care Level: Intermediate

Porcellio Flavomarginatus is one of the crown jewels in the Porcellio family. Originating from Greece, they have a bright white serrated skirt surrounding a deep gray to black base. Most individuals will also display two rows of white dots or lines running the full length of the pereon section. This species as of now is fairly less common in the hobby. We have spent at least a full year growing our robust culture to what it is now and they are an absolutely fascinating isopod worth adding to your collection! Interesting abstract fact, the translation of their scientific name is "Yellow Bordered Woodlouse" which obviously conflicts with their actual appearance as there is no yellow.  Porcellio Flavomarginatus does have a few specific care requirements that set it apart from most other isopods. They need a sharp moisture gradient with good section of their environment completely dry. Like any isopod, they still need a moist area to hydrate their gills, but this should not be more than 25% of the enclosure. Next is air flow. It needs to be moderate to high. This can create challenges with keeping the moist area from drying out. A deeper moist side substrate can help with this since deeper soil will retain moisture longer. They also seem to enjoy and benefit from some extra height in the mid range and/or dry section. This is best achieved with carefully stacked medium pieces of cork bark. This unique isopod will eat all of the typical food options like various vegetables, powdered isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood or Bug Burger. But like most Porcellio, they are very fond of protein based foods like freeze dried minnows, shrimp pellets, fish flakes and dried insects.  Unfortunately (in our experience) and perhaps the reason they are less common is that they are unforgiving in these needs and a culture will quickly crash if these aspects are neglected for more than a very short time. But, if you give them what they need consistently, they will flourish and breed readily. If you are interested but still uncertain fear not! We have a thorough Porcellio Flavomarginatus Care Guide that delves into the nitty gritty details you will need to master this rare and rewarding species! Quick Facts Origin: Greece and a handful of Turkish islands bordering Greece Family Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Flavomarginatus Morph Name: N/A, this NOT the Crete Morph Average Size: Up to 0.75 inches Activity level: Daytime active and adventurous Difficulty: Intermediate

Porcellio Haasi "High Yellow" are among the few terrestrial isopods that reach an impressive sizes as adults with large males reaching 1 to 1.25 inches in length. Males are easily distinguishable having much longer uropods than the females. This species is typically on the shy side and you won't see them out in the open moving about like other isopod species. But once their numbers are up they will be a bit more bold to show themselves periodically. They spend much of their times on the undersides of cork bark, rotting wood and thick leaf litter. Be aware that males are very territorial and your enclosure should have ample space along with multiple hides to minimize conflicts and stress. The bright yellow coloration of these individuals is a line bred trait selectively isolated and is a breath taking sight to see in real life. Originating from the mountainous areas of Spain, these titan sized isopods prefer a drier habitat but still need a damp area to rehydrate from time to time. Quick Facts Origin: Spain Scientific Name: Porcellio Haasi Family: Porcellionidae Morph Name: High Yellow Size: Up to 1.25 inches Activity level: Generally reclusive Difficulty: Intermediate

Porcellio Laevis Dairy Cow is an old school classic in the isopod hobby. They are likely the most "bullet proof" isopod available being very easy to care for and highly tolerant to some level of neglect. If you are just getting your feet wet or perhaps have some reservations, this is the species fort you! Like all isopods, they do have some minimum basic care needs, but beyond that so long as you provide these things they will thrive and reproduce rapidly once settled in their new enclosure. P. Laevis is also ideal for use as feeders if you have pets that eat insects like crickets. They are daytime active and very bold. Even taking food directly from your hand with no hesitation when they're hungry!  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Be aware that they will outgrow this much sooner than other isopods so it's not a bad idea to start with a larger set up if you can. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Slightly warmer is desirable if you wish to see a thriving culture that is active and reproduces faster. A standard moisture gradient with around 30-40% of one side moist (not wet) with the remainder tapering off is adequate. Note though even the driest section should still have a nominal amount of moisture in it. They will not fare well if the entire enclosure becomes too dry. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day to self regulate as needed. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This hardy isopod will eat all of the typical food options like various vegetables, powdered isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood, Bug Burger and others. But like most Porcellio, they are very fond of protein based foods like freeze dried minnows, shrimp pellets, fish flakes and dried insects. Remember that isopods in their natural elements are detrivores. Their primary diet is decayed wood and dried leaf litter which should always be available. Overall Porcellio Laevis Dairy Cow is a very low maintenance isopod that only needs 3 basic things to survive. Average moisture/humidity, food, and steady average room temperatures. Remember to be prepared once they start reproducing. You will need to either upgrade the enclosure size, use as feeders if applicable or sell/give away to friends or other interested parties. If they get too cramped this can lead to cannibalism and a total crash of the colony due to stress and ammonia build up. Quick Facts Origin: Europe & Northern Africa Family Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > P. Laevis Average Size: 0.70" inch Activity level: Active both day & night Difficulty: Easy

Porcellio Laevis Orange is the orange mutation of the well known Dairy Cow. However this version is solid orange. Porcellio Laevis is likely the most nearly "bullet proof" isopod in the hobby today. If you are just getting your feet wet and perhaps have some reservations, this is the species fort you! Like all isopods, they do have some minimum basic care needs, but beyond that so long as you provide these things they will thrive and reproduce rapidly once settled in their new enclosure. P. Laevis is also ideal for use as feeders if you have pets that eat insects like crickets. They are daytime active and very bold. Even taking food directly from your hand with no hesitation when they're hungry!  A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Be aware that they will outgrow this much sooner than other isopods so it's not a bad idea to start with a larger set up if you can. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Slightly warmer is desirable if you wish to see a thriving culture that is active and reproduces faster. A standard moisture gradient with around 30-40% of one side moist (not wet) with the remainder tapering off is adequate. Note though even the driest section should still have a nominal amount of moisture in it. They will not fare well if the entire enclosure becomes too dry. They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day to self regulate as needed. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. This hardy isopod will eat all of the typical food options like various vegetables, powdered isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood, Bug Burger and others. But like most Porcellio, they are very fond of protein based foods like freeze dried minnows, shrimp pellets, fish flakes and dried insects. Remember that isopods in their natural elements are detrivores. Their primary diet is decayed wood and dried leaf litter which should always be available. Overall Porcellio Laevis Orange is a very low maintenance isopod that only needs 3 basic things to survive. Average moisture/humidity, food, and steady average room temperatures. Remember to be prepared once they start reproducing. You will need to either upgrade the enclosure size, use as feeders if applicable or sell/give away to friends or other interested parties. If they get too cramped this can lead to cannibalism and a total crash of the colony due to stress and ammonia build up. Quick Facts Origin: Europe & Northern Africa Family Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > P. Laevis Average Size: 0.70" inch Activity level: Active both day & night Difficulty: Easy

Porcellio Scaber is a popular and highly utilized species for clean up crew in the terrarium. They have a wide tolerance for both temperature and humidity. This convenient forgiving nature in their husbandry requirements means they can generally tolerate a moderate level of learning curves without disaster. They are soft bodied and can also be used as a feeder for many reptiles and amphibians. There are many color morphs available to suit virtually any preference.  This particular variant called "Orange Dalmatian" comes from crossing P. Scaber Orange with P. Scaber Dalmatian. The overall appearance of Orange Dalmatian is a creamy off white base, sometimes showing a subtle orange hue.The typical gray to dark gray spotting on the regular dalmatian variant is replaced with a bright and vibrant orange! Please carefully note mancae and younger individuals are usually devoid of or only show very minimal dalmatian spotting characteristics. This is normal! Their full colors and variable patterns do not fully develop until the reach the sub adult to adult stages of their lives.  A common question we often hear is "What is the difference between Orange Dalmatian and Orange Koi?" Simply stated, the Orange Dalmatian's overall color at a glance is mostly it's base color of off white. The orange spotting and flecking amounts will vary, but the base color of off white covers a much higher amount of the surface area than the orange portions. The Orange Koi version is mostly orange with various levels of off white splotching. Same as before, the patterns and distribution of orange vs. white pigmentation will vary, but with Orange Koi, orange accounts for the bulk majority of the coloration. Caring for any variant of P. Scaber is easy. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Slightly warmer is desirable if you wish to see a thriving culture that is active and reproduces faster. This species They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy.  Being a Porcellio, they are especially fond of protein which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests.Porcellio Scaber Orange Dalmatian is visually stunning with their bright orange spotting and flecking contrasting nicely on an off white base. They're a great all a multi purpose isopod. Whether you need a bioactive janitor, a feeder, or just want a species to enjoy that isn't high maintenance they can fill every niche from semi arid to sub tropical and look good while doing it! They are tough, hardy and reproduce frequently once established. Quick Facts Origin: Europe Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Porcellio Scaber Characteristics; Predominant off white base with various amounts of orange spotting. Highly prolific. Strong feeding response. Average Size: 0.65" to 0.75" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity normal in larger cultures. Difficulty: Easy

Porcellio Scaber "Skewbald Tri" is a unique isopod that has highly variable patterns and colors. Porcellio Scaber is an excellent choice for beginners. They have a wide tolerance for both temperature and humidity. This convenient forgiving nature in their husbandry requirements means they can generally tolerate a moderate level of learning curves without disaster. The Skewbald Tri isopods appearance is actually a result of intermixing two different genetic mutations together which are calico and piebald. Porcellio scaber has a substantial amount of variants far as appearance go. But to minimize any potential confusion, it's important to note no matter what the common name is for any color morph in the hobby, the actual animal itself (porcellio scaber) is the same across all types. All of those fancy catchy names are simply ways to easily distinguish the coloration and patterns for any given specimen.          So what exactly makes a Skewball Tri isopod look the way it does? The first mixing element, piebald is a recessive gene that causes lack of pigments in random sections of the animal. Usually in a splotching manner anywhere from the head area all the way to the back. The piebald effect can range from very minimal to a complete lack of all color. Next is the calico trait which is expressed as mottling in dark spots. Mottling is not large defined dots, but rather a very high frequency of smaller dots. So when we mash these two genetic traits together we get Skubald Tri! Each and every isopod is different in it's appearance, yet they all generally display the same theme with a mix of these two traits. Some are black and gray and others are reddish orange to white and numerous shades in between. One visually appealing and satisfying aspect of this morph is that these variances to some degree are separated on the pereon (the scutes or sections you see when looking at the isopod from above). Lastly it is vital to point out that the calico gene is only expressed by females. As such, any Skubald Tri isopod that has the calico pattern is 100% female. Isopods in this group that only show the piebald appearance with no mottling are more than likely going to be males. All isopods you receive from us will exhibit a good ratio of colors and patterns along with ensuring there are both males and females included so your culture can grow. For care, porcellio scaber is very easy. A 6 quart gasket sealed storage bin or small glass aquarium is sufficient for a small starter culture. Standard or bioactive enclosures can be enhanced with natural botanical items to simulate the isopods habitat in the wild. This helps them feel secure which in turn promotes their natural processes like eating and breeding. Average room temperature in the mid 70sF will suit them just fine. Slightly warmer is desirable if you wish to see a thriving culture that is active and reproduces faster. This species They will often migrate between moist and dry areas at different times of the day. A few pieces of cork bark strategically placed over some of the moist side will help retain the humidity levels and reduce the frequency of watering needed to maintain a proper moisture gradient. Isopods are detritivores. Their primary diet in nature is leaf litter and decayed wood. Both of these should always be available in abundance. They will also happily consume any other decomposing organic plant or animal matter they come across. As such it is vital to supplement your isopods with other food sources on a semi regular basis. They enjoy food options like squash, radishes, carrots and other veggies along with commercial isopod powdered food like Repashy.  Being a Porcellio, they are especially fond of protein which can be things like freeze dried minnows, shrimp, fish pellets, dried insects and other protein based food sources. Be sure to feed these on the drier side as they can spoil quickly in humid environments and attract unwanted pests. Porcellio Scaber Skewbald Tri is just one of many color morphs of this hardy isopod. We have several others in our storefront and highly encourage you to check them out! This intriguing designer isopod is very adaptable to a wide range of humidity and ventilation needs make them a top choice for a clean up crew or a display pet. Quick Facts Origin: Europe Classification: Porcellionidae > Porcellio > Porcellio Scaber Characteristics: Variable patterns and colors exhibiting both piebald and calico traits. Strong feeding response. Average Size: 0.65" to 0.75" inch Activity level: Primarily nocturnal. Some day activity normal in larger cultures. Difficulty: Easy